another Long Tube thread
#53
#54
I haven't had to drop the trans pan since I installed my LT's, but IIRC there's enough room to get it down...that pic is deceiving due to the angle I took it at...
In the past I've always had 3 bolt flanges, so this will be my first try at removing a stainless slip fit with band clamps. I'll be sure to report how they come apart when I remove my y-pipe to swap my trans.
I like the looks of the v-band connections since they're so compact, but I can see how they'd leak since the two pieces are just butted up against each other. I haven't seen enough feedback from guys who are using them to know for sure. If I do find out that they are as leak free as my current slip-fit set up, I may someday have my header to y-pipe connections done with v-bands, when I eventually go to a true dual exhaust after the LQ9 gets dropped in
In the past I've always had 3 bolt flanges, so this will be my first try at removing a stainless slip fit with band clamps. I'll be sure to report how they come apart when I remove my y-pipe to swap my trans.
I like the looks of the v-band connections since they're so compact, but I can see how they'd leak since the two pieces are just butted up against each other. I haven't seen enough feedback from guys who are using them to know for sure. If I do find out that they are as leak free as my current slip-fit set up, I may someday have my header to y-pipe connections done with v-bands, when I eventually go to a true dual exhaust after the LQ9 gets dropped in
#55
In your case Michael, I'd leave the fluid alone at this point, but on a new 60E, I recommend changing the fluid every 25-30k.
#56
I can get you a picture tomorrow, but basically I cut my "I" pipe just beyond where it bolts to the new Y pipe, and installed a $20 "Bullet" muffler using the same type stainless steel band clamps that I used in place of the u-bolt style clamps on the new Y pipe.
Here's what I used and it did exactly what I hoped it would. Quieted truck down at low rpm cruise, all but eliminated the drone/rasp, yet let's it open up and still sound good at WOT.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-630810/
#57
BTW, I was just under the truck today changing the oil and filter, as well as doing my every other oil change, transmission fluid drain and refill.
Pipes no longer have that almost fake "chrome look" like when they were new. They simply look just like any other stainless steel piping. We've already had the State dump excessive road salt for a minor snowfall a week ago, and I work/drive through a dirty steel mill daily...pipes and headers look great for what I've subjected them to already, IMO.
Pipes no longer have that almost fake "chrome look" like when they were new. They simply look just like any other stainless steel piping. We've already had the State dump excessive road salt for a minor snowfall a week ago, and I work/drive through a dirty steel mill daily...pipes and headers look great for what I've subjected them to already, IMO.
#58
Yea, those bullets make nice resonators huh
Do they make the bullets in stainless steel?
*EDIT* I know that Magnaflow makes a sort of bullet that's SS...
Do they make the bullets in stainless steel?*EDIT* I know that Magnaflow makes a sort of bullet that's SS...
Last edited by budhayes3; Dec 12, 2009 at 09:13 PM.
#60

Since my catback is only aluminized steel anyway, there was definitely no reason for me to spend that much extra on a stainless resonator/bullet/glasspack.

I simply primed and painted mine black before install, since it comes to you in the box in raw metal.





