It loks like something in the shift it wants me to break the pump open. There is also a spring with the converter wanting me to do the same thing. Who all has done this or skipped this part?

 

bump.

 

there are a few parts that you can only do if the tranny is out of the truck and disasembeled. i just skiped those steps. i think it tells you that.

 

Did you have to replace a spring in the pump for the new converter?

 

i didn't do anything that you couldn't get to from the pan with the tranny in the truck.

 

Okie ....

I got this little spring telling me to drill something in the pump out and a spring from the top of it.

 

puting in that shift kit was prety tricky. i had to take my tv/vcr out to the garage and follow the video very closely. probably rewound and watched each part a few times to be sure.

 

LOL ... I watched the video for the 60e shift kit about 5 times before I decided I was ready to do it .. but when I did do it, I felt confident about it. The VB in this one looks freaking HUGE! I haven't watched this one yet, but I need to.

 

most of the instructions are in the video. the few pages of instructions i got didn't tell me much and i was worried till i watched the vid.

 

The drillings in the pump are for the vent passage to prevent fluid purge and the drainback passage for the front pushing to prevent seal blowout. There is also a passage to be drilled in the pump housing.

This is pic shows the front drainback passage enlargement. (Note that it is only possible to drill this if the seal is replaced.)


This is the vent passage.


I think the spring kit you are talking about are the ones for replacing the return springs for the Direct Clutch Piston Return.
They go here:


There is also a large Intermediate Snapring that you won't be able to install without opening the trans.

You should install the new springs for the PR valve and spacer if necessary. The spacer will be based on what type of PR valve you have.
This type gets no spacer:


This is the TransGo bushing and Boost valve (top) vs Stock (bottom)


I would not attempt to pull the front pump unless you have an ATSG manual. The manual has torque specs for the bolts and the correct sequence and precedure for attaching the two sections of the pump back to each other again.

EDIT:
One more tip,
There is a tiny hole (and a few others) that must be drilled in the valve body that a tiny cotter pin will eventually go into. You'll have to use a pin vise for this of course. I found it useful to use masking tape and pieces of a towel to keep things sanitary. Brake Cleaner is your friend - lots of it.