We can reuse the gasket and bolts for compression testing? That makes things much more comfortable thinking about for me. But when I pull the head on and off, and when I pull the cam out to check the cam bearings, arent I risking dropping another lifter? Should I pull the stock cam when you come check it out saturday (if you can).

 

It is worth a shot, worry about he cam bearings after the compression test...

 

good point haha.


ok here we go
Does anyone know any info on dropping the oil pan on a 2wd truck?
Can I unbolt it and drop it enough to fish out that lifter, or am I going to have to drop the crossmember, and steering rack?

 

Is it possible to push a lifter back up into the tray from the bottom?

 

not to hijack your thread 00chevy, hope things work out well for ya, for a 124k miles hard to justify a bad bearing, hell i always heard thats just now breaking them in lol, what oil do you use? were you having problems before the swap started? anyway i am sure zzebes knows a bad bearing when he sees one, soooo i'd be looking further into the future. but i would go for what blackgmc mentioned just to see where ya stand with compression and leak down, just take all the bolts in the pan out , tilt the rear part of the pan and with a magnet pull the lifter out... either way good luck on the outcome


lo&slo i tried to pm you on the LS2, but you cant recieve pms... anyway the motor is in nederland texas.. i can help with any assistance if needed.

 

I have to drain the oil in the pan before I can drop it correct? Well do I need to do a complete oil change before I do the compression test? Can I do a compression test with the oil thats left in the motor/filter? Should I go buy 6 quarts of cheap oil to do it with and drain it when I'm done?

 

dont want to burst the bubble but, bandaiding this is not gonna solve your problems and if your bearings on your cam are worn then what do the mains and rod bearings look like?

 

I'm going to pick up a complete 5.3 LM7 out of an 06 that has 16,000 miles on it maybe today, for $1050. Then I'll probably throw my cam in the new engine. Not sure on that yet.

What do you guys think?

 

Alright sorry it took so long for me to respond i freaking passed out last night after a 15hr day and 8hrs of driving lol

His cam bearings at least the ones i could physically see had a significant amount of wear as well as LOTS of exposed copper, also the front bearing has a very rough texture on the valley side that you can feel by hand, the cam did not show any SUPER unusual patterns except some concerted visible lines around the circumference of the journal.

as for compression, after i removed all the valvetrain components (rockers) i spun the motor over by hand and most positions had standard sound and feel of slow leakdown although when the position of the crank related to TDC on certain holes there was an excessivley fast leakdown rate enough to make the motor much easier to spin, to easy.

the timing chain exhibited a large amout of slack, enough to equate to what i would assume to be equatable to 2-3 degrees of timing gained or lost depending on the position of the cam to crank

also the drivers side valve cover exhibited severe carbon deposits which leads me to believe a bad guide or failed seal

I have pictures of most of this but i am going back to bed for awhile

 

girlie man

Now I'm trying to decided if its worth it to risk throwing that cam in my new motor. Can I go to home depot and get some wooden dowl rods and use them like the JRP tool? Whats the risk like when takeing out a cam on an engine stand. I also need to find a way to use a spring compressor ASAP if I decide to throw the cam in it.