Yeah it was a lightning. I had him at the 330 mark, we were dead even at the 1/8th, then he pulled me on the top. I was running about an 85 shot of juice. I had just installed the kit the night before, and only had 85 and 150 jets. I wish I had those 150s in, but the way I was bucking, I would have broken something.

Not too bad considering the rodeo launch and I was running 33" all terrain tires.

 

I too was thinking of leaf spring axle wrap. Why not toss on a set of slappers or those Cal-Trac's to see if those help plant the rear axle better?

 

Regulate tire pressure, traction bars are a must and rear sway bars can also help but make sure you disconnect or remove front sway bar at the track..

 

Hmm. Didn't think about disconnecting the front swaybar. Anybody tried this on a 4wd? So traction bars are a must even on a 4wd? With the rocking it does, I would think a rear swaybar would really help.

After watching Parish and Big Tex's videos, My truck does EXACTLY what Parish's does. Did removing the 2"block help with what your truck did there Parish? Also, Big Tex's video IS pretty funny.

 

I still don't see how a sway bar will affect a launch.

Maybe the rear one ... but I don't see how the front one would make a difference. They are designed to keep the truck from rolling in a turn. The only thing I could think of is the weight off the front, but then just disconnecting it wouldn't do that.

I'm still not sure on the rear bar, there is a lot of movement the linkage for it to be able to do whatever it wants.

 

i took my sway bar off in my last truck and wouldn't recomend doing that, it only weighed something like 10lbs and had a big effect on daily driving, i hated it.

if your not doing what big tex did then i wouldn't worry about it, pealing out isn't such a bad thing but the bucking is. i would skip those traction devices too unless you are geting wheel hop. just get nice a strait on the launch and be ready for a little counter steer.

removing the block and droping the tortion bars a little got me from what bigtex's truck did to what you saw on my video. i think if your pealing out with all 4 all you have left to do is tires, wider, stickier, proper air presure. i am kind of going thru the tire decsion process right now, i dont want to go as short as i did on my last truck and would like to keep the stock rims, just something with a wider tread, they dont make any tall 16" nitto's drag radials do they?

there was some talk about a front posi or whatever, if they made one it would work fine, great in fact since when you shift to 2wd it unlocks one axle and the front drive shaft it wouldn't hurt a thing, i think they make an elocker for the 2500 units that is what i will go with if i ever upgrade to one of those fronts.

 

I have some seriously stiff overload springs in the back, so they're probably preventing the bucking.

I have 285 wide 320 treadwear Yokohama avs/st's they are alot stickier than stockers. And 20 mm wider. Maybe when its warmer My traction will get better.

I think to go much wider than stock, you'll have to get wider rims. Too wide of a tire on too skinny a rim, rounds the footprint of the tire and you get less contact patch.

I'm gonna go out and remove all the weight I can from the back end and see what that does. I cant test right now ...Its snowing.

Thanks guys.

 

Weight removal---Tailgate-52lbs
Spare-68lbs
Plastic cover behind the seat-3.2lbs
Jack,tools-9.4lbs
Hitch-36lbs
Spare winch-4.6lbs

TOTAL--173.2
Now when the roads dry up I'll test it to see if less weight on the back helps out.

 

I sometimes do 4x4 launches in the truck on the street, but I don't get too crazy with it. I only launch from idle, I'm just too afraid of hurting the transmission. I have a front e locker which helps torque steer on idle launches when locked.

 

So you have less torque steer with the e-locker engaged?