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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 09:55 PM
  #31  
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If you will PM me your email addy, I'll send you a nice CR calc I found.

248/254 114
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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I think you will be fine with that cam Flyer, I have told people time and again strokers eat up cams. I ran a 237/242 112 in my heavy pig and it had too much low end. My new cam is a 246/246 112 and I think it should work well with a 3200ish stall. Take a look at some of the dynos on tech for strokers the TQ curve is vicious
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 01:57 AM
  #33  
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Well I'm just about as done as I can be without the pushrods and keyed crank pulley. The Pacesetter ORY doesn't fit with a 4L80E deep pan. Not sure yet what to do about that. Guess I'll have to run open header for a little bit
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 10:01 AM
  #34  
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Sounds like your coming along nicely! That engine was a thing of beauty & the beast!
Sorry to hear of all these install issues. Did you have to clearance your timing chain cover to allow for that double roller timing chain? I was told double roller timing chains will rub the timing cover without modifications.
If this is not true, what brand & part# timing chain & gears did you use?

Jim
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 10:29 AM
  #35  
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open header = you WILL get tired of it
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 11:12 AM
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He has teh Rollmaster just like mine, I had to grind down the bolt heads on the oil pump and now it fits just fine and I could still take the oil pump apart if I needed to. Good deal man, why did you need shorter p-rods again? Im sure I missed it somewhere.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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I'm not sure why, my base circle is smaller than stock, but the block was decked and the heads have been cleaned up on the bottom a little bit. Maybe the LS7 lifters? I found a formula over on Tech to calculate preload based on number of turns of the bolt from zero lash to when the rocker touches the guide. Using that I found that I had .18" of preload. I ordered my 7.3's from Summit today, that should put me at .08" which is about perfect.

I have the Rollmaster, but I'm not having to clearance the timing cover at all....mine fits fine. I dunno why you had to Cody, I wonder if they gave you different bolts or something??

I'm not looking forward to open headers actually, but I don't know what else to do until I can get it to a shop to have a good y-pipe fabbed up. I refuse to swap tranny pans again. That **** sucks.

Got a machine shop to cut a keyway in my crank pulley today, so that's taken care of. Also bought a sheet of steel so I can work on a throttle cable bracket. Hopefully I'll be able to make something fairly easily. That's the last of the significant problems. Other than that, just have to lengthen the MAP sensor wires, splice on my new injector plugs and get a few vacuum fittings for the FPR and boost/vac gauge, and I'll be ready to go. Still haven't gotten a fitting for the fuel pressure sender but I'm not gonna worry too much about having that on for the initial start up and break in.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #38  
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A lot of custom cam grinders will regrinding stock cams, or cam blanks to get thier grinds. Some times when they do that they end up with a smaller base circle to get the lift they want.

On your throttle cable bracket, are the bungs there? Can you just get the brass inserts from gm and press then into the manifold? I think I've heard of people doing that, but not sure.

Also, don't forget where those old injector plugs are going

On your Y-pipe, you might want to talk to the guys down the street from you with the dune buggy. They have a MIG welder, and he could probably help you make a Y-pipe with some mandrel bends to get you going for now.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kbracing96
A lot of custom cam grinders will regrinding stock cams, or cam blanks to get thier grinds. Some times when they do that they end up with a smaller base circle to get the lift they want.

On your throttle cable bracket, are the bungs there? Can you just get the brass inserts from gm and press then into the manifold? I think I've heard of people doing that, but not sure.

Also, don't forget where those old injector plugs are going

On your Y-pipe, you might want to talk to the guys down the street from you with the dune buggy. They have a MIG welder, and he could probably help you make a Y-pipe with some mandrel bends to get you going for now.
That's why I'm confused, a smaller base circle should mean longer pushrods, not shorter. I guess decking the block more than made up for the difference in base circle diameter.

The bungs are not there on the manifold, there are some close by that already have the brass inserts, so I'm going to try and use those to mount the bracket to.

I haven't forgotten you about the injector plugs again. Only did that once

Good idea about asking the neighbors, I didn't even think about that

I'm getting so close! I can't wait!!!!
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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I have a pushrod length checker, Ill mock it up tonight and double check the length, ours should be damn near the same. Also as I understand it the stock style lifters like a little more preload then .008, I think its like .016 but the search isnt working on tech right now.

All large lift cams have a smaller base circle to make room for the larger lobe.
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