4.8 Engine Removal
04-30-2007, 01:30 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Need Assistance Removal 4.8
Ok guys im knee deep in the removal of this 4.8 and i need some questions
answered the removal seems routine as i have not meesed with any Gen III stuff this is my first swap the vehicle is a extended cab 03 silverado and i need some assistance their are 2 bellhousing bolts i am having trouble getting
to is it easier to pull motor and trans together or can i sneek the motor out with the trans in place, because the way its looking now im going to have to drop the trans crossmember to be able to get to the remaining bellhousing bolts everything is done up top, oh thats another question when i removed
the intake i notice a plate and two knock sensors should i have removed the plate and the two knock sensors? cause all i did was remove the two knock sensors and left the plate over the intake valley and installed JPA's lift plate
over the original is this correct? HELP Frank
answered the removal seems routine as i have not meesed with any Gen III stuff this is my first swap the vehicle is a extended cab 03 silverado and i need some assistance their are 2 bellhousing bolts i am having trouble getting
to is it easier to pull motor and trans together or can i sneek the motor out with the trans in place, because the way its looking now im going to have to drop the trans crossmember to be able to get to the remaining bellhousing bolts everything is done up top, oh thats another question when i removed
the intake i notice a plate and two knock sensors should i have removed the plate and the two knock sensors? cause all i did was remove the two knock sensors and left the plate over the intake valley and installed JPA's lift plate
over the original is this correct? HELP Frank
Last edited by beastolds455; 04-30-2007 at 01:52 AM.
04-30-2007, 09:12 AM
#2
take off the intake, flop it off to the side, then you can get the two top bolts.
the knock sensors on top are very brittle, but they will come off. The plugs come off, then there's the actual "sensors" they're just a huge nut that unbolts.
here's my motor swap pics
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Motor%20Swap/
the knock sensors on top are very brittle, but they will come off. The plugs come off, then there's the actual "sensors" they're just a huge nut that unbolts.
here's my motor swap pics
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Motor%20Swap/
04-30-2007, 09:20 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: waynesburg, KY.
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Official ENGINE R&R Guide
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a step-by-step removal and replacement of the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L trucks. I am not sure whether or not the deisel trucks are the same or not, I'm sure it's the same concept. This is intended to be a guide and I am not responsible if you get hurt or hurt anything on/in you truck while attempting to do this yourself. This should be performed by a trained and experianced mechanic. Ok, let's get started.
1. Loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the air tube assy and the hose clip on the passenger side of the radiator.
2. Next is the engine cover, 10mm nuts hold this on. Then the radiator shroud comes out when you take the 2 10mm bolts from the top of the shroud and the four pull-pins where the upper and lower part of the shroud connects.
3. Now put nuts/bolt in a tray/ziplock bag/muffin pan whatever you prefer but mark then accordingly.
4. Now the fan belt, use a 36mm wrench to twist the nut against the cranking rotation of the belt. Do not remove the belt before doing this, the belt will hold the water pump shaft in place while you loosen the fan nut. The fan but may be stuck so either have an air hammer or something else to accomodate.
5. Now drain the coolant, if you don't know how to do this you shouldn't be trying to pull the motor out in the first place.
6. Pull the the upper radiator hose on the engine off. The clamps will not slide on the hoses, just so you know.
7. Lower radiator hose and 2 heater hoses, Radiator hook may be needed here.
8. Remove the throttle cable, hold at WOT & unloop the cable. Remove the anchor as well, push the 2 tangs on the anchor and pull it out.
9. Upper cover bracket for the intake man, 3 10mm bolts hold it on.
10. Pull brake booster hose from the housing and start working on the ground straps. You'll have several, just look for them. I can't tell you everyone, someone else may can though.
11. Now starting on the Harness, TPS plug and altnator plug go next.
12. Now take the EVAP solenoid wire connectors and air temp senders. THese are located right behind the TB.
13. The mian wire harness clip needs to be unhooked, use a radiator tool.
14. Remove the coil plugs on both sides of the engines, you will have 8 total. When you get through with this, get the other altenatot wire, it's a 10mm.
15. Remove the Intake Manifold to get to the Knock sensor jumper wires unless you have it tagged or know it.
16. Fuel injector wiring harness, can be a bitch at first, just take your time and play with it a minute, it's hard to explain.
17. Now pull the water temp sensor wire on the driver's side of the block. Towards the front BTW.
18. Remove the MAP connector. It's on top of the intake towards the back.
19. Fuel lines, disconnect the to and from or feed and return lines. Do not lose the clips though. You'll need the special fuel line tool for this. be sure you have it.
20. Now we can take off the belt. Use the tensioner with a 15mm wrench.
21. Power steering pulley, take it off to see the bolts behind it. You will need a pully puller, go rent or buy one before you get started doing this.
22. Now take the 4 15mm Hex headed bolts out, 3 on the pump and 1 on the bracket. Keep up with bolts again.
23. Now zip-tie the PS pump to the inner fender well out of the way. It will stay there until we reinstall the engine.
24. AC, do the same with the AC compressor. 2 15mm Hex bolts on the side of the pump, and 2 on the bottom. Zip-tie it out of the way on the pass side.
25. Starter, 2 -13mm bolts and a 10mm bolt holding the flexplate access cover. You may have to play with it to get the starter out, time and patience my friend.
26. Now, while you're still under there, take the oil level connector off the oil pan and remove the 10mm bolt holding the harness on the fron of the oil pan.
27. Unbolt the exhaust collector. 3-15mm bolts hold it. Long extension needed or reccomended.
28. Remove 3 15mm bolts holding the flexplate and torque converter together. Use the hole you made with removeing the starter.
29. Remove all of the TRanny bolts you can, some are easier from the top, the top 2 anyway.
30. To get to the tranny bolts let's take the intake off. 10-8mm bolts hold the intake on and a few hoses and connectors. Clean around the itake before taking it off so you don't get **** in your ports.
31. Take the oil pressure sender and Knock sensors connector loose. May want to cover the ports at this time as well. Tape or shop towel whatever but do something.
32. Now disconnect the cam sensor connector and then remove the 10mm bolts hoding the brackets, about 3 I think. After this you'll be able to get to the other tranny bolts.
33. Now the motor mount bolts. 3-15mm bolts on each side, don't try to remove the engine until you take the loose.
34. Take the hood off now, if you haven't already. I would actuallly do it first but I am not changing it all now.
35. Start pulling, slowly and watching for anything you or me either one forgot. I'm sure I missed something so take your time and post up if know a different way/shortcut.
36. Start drinking your beer now. I wouldn't advise doing it until now though. lol. May tear something up.
Thanks for reading and if I can be of assistance please let me know.
Once again, a professional should at least be on hand while pewrforming this operation. Should you or anyone else get hurt I am not responsible. Should your vehicle get hurt or something go wrong I am not responsible. This is to be used as a guide only.
Have Fun with it.
2000_LS1
P.S. Be thankful you aren't doing it on a Camaro, Corvette or Firebird too. It's alot harder.
__________________
Hell...who knows what's next? 408 right now though.
EDIT THIS POST WAS MADE BY 2000 LS1. NOT BY MYSELF I JUST STUCK IT IN HERE.
__________________
1999 Silverado 4.8
Mods:
TSP HotTune, Cold Air Intake, IAT Mod, 160* T-Stat,Built 4L60E, TB Bypass, EGR Mod, 100 Shot Wet Nitrous, Duel Exhaust, Perma-cool transmission cooler,E-fans, Ported & Polished TB,
Cash,Grass or *** nobody rides for free.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Flyer : 04-18-2006 at 11:24 PM.
mason110
View Public Profile
Send a private message to mason110
Send email to mason110
Find More Posts by mason110
Add mason110 to Your Buddy List
04-19-2006, 03:23 AM #7
1slow01Z71
Master of Disaster
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Under the truck in Austin, TX
Posts: 12,155
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dropping your engine and lining it up with the bellhousing
Since the flexplate is mounted onto the back of the motor and it can be kind of difficult to get the flexplate in the bellhousing while getting the motor mounts lined up with the frame the easiest way to get everything lined up is to put a floor jack under the transmission, and jack it up as high as it will go without crushing the pan. Then, drop the motor down into the truck and it should be much easier to get the flexplate in and the motor mounts where they need to be at the same time.
__________________
01 ECSB Z71
Rex built 420, WCCH Edelbrock 245s, Vic Jr w/ 4Barrel TB, Nitrous Pro-Flow Plate System, STS GT67 w/ FMIC, 80e w/ shift kit, Built SF 14 Bolt, the list goes on...
1slow01Z71
View Public Profile
Send a private message to 1slow01Z71
Send email to 1slow01Z71
Find More Posts by 1slow01Z71
Add 1slow01Z71 to Your Buddy List
04-22-2006, 07:57 AM #8
thunder550
12 Second Truck Club
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 4,969
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Avoiding Hood removal.
TIP...you DO NOT have to remove your hood to get the engine out. There are two sets of bolt holes where the springs attach to the hood. The ones closest to the front of the hood are where the springs normally attach, and the set further back is called the "service position". If you remove the bolts and reattach the springs to the rear holes, the hood will stand almost vertically, and will be out of the way. See attached pic.
Attached Thumbnails
__________________
2001 Silverado Z71 ECSB
408 with some Callies, Diamond, and TSP PRC parts
235/239-600/580-113+4 Jones Cam Designs
PT76GTS, FMIC, Alkycontrol, EFILive tuning, Innovate LC-1
SSR intake manifold, UMI 90mm TB
Transformance 4L80E, Hughes 25-20L converter
Truetrac, 3.73's, Acceleronics Versafueler, 96# injectors
12.74@106, 1.87 60'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Flyer : 04-26-2006 at 05:25 AM.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a step-by-step removal and replacement of the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L trucks. I am not sure whether or not the deisel trucks are the same or not, I'm sure it's the same concept. This is intended to be a guide and I am not responsible if you get hurt or hurt anything on/in you truck while attempting to do this yourself. This should be performed by a trained and experianced mechanic. Ok, let's get started.
1. Loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the air tube assy and the hose clip on the passenger side of the radiator.
2. Next is the engine cover, 10mm nuts hold this on. Then the radiator shroud comes out when you take the 2 10mm bolts from the top of the shroud and the four pull-pins where the upper and lower part of the shroud connects.
3. Now put nuts/bolt in a tray/ziplock bag/muffin pan whatever you prefer but mark then accordingly.
4. Now the fan belt, use a 36mm wrench to twist the nut against the cranking rotation of the belt. Do not remove the belt before doing this, the belt will hold the water pump shaft in place while you loosen the fan nut. The fan but may be stuck so either have an air hammer or something else to accomodate.
5. Now drain the coolant, if you don't know how to do this you shouldn't be trying to pull the motor out in the first place.
6. Pull the the upper radiator hose on the engine off. The clamps will not slide on the hoses, just so you know.
7. Lower radiator hose and 2 heater hoses, Radiator hook may be needed here.
8. Remove the throttle cable, hold at WOT & unloop the cable. Remove the anchor as well, push the 2 tangs on the anchor and pull it out.
9. Upper cover bracket for the intake man, 3 10mm bolts hold it on.
10. Pull brake booster hose from the housing and start working on the ground straps. You'll have several, just look for them. I can't tell you everyone, someone else may can though.
11. Now starting on the Harness, TPS plug and altnator plug go next.
12. Now take the EVAP solenoid wire connectors and air temp senders. THese are located right behind the TB.
13. The mian wire harness clip needs to be unhooked, use a radiator tool.
14. Remove the coil plugs on both sides of the engines, you will have 8 total. When you get through with this, get the other altenatot wire, it's a 10mm.
15. Remove the Intake Manifold to get to the Knock sensor jumper wires unless you have it tagged or know it.
16. Fuel injector wiring harness, can be a bitch at first, just take your time and play with it a minute, it's hard to explain.
17. Now pull the water temp sensor wire on the driver's side of the block. Towards the front BTW.
18. Remove the MAP connector. It's on top of the intake towards the back.
19. Fuel lines, disconnect the to and from or feed and return lines. Do not lose the clips though. You'll need the special fuel line tool for this. be sure you have it.
20. Now we can take off the belt. Use the tensioner with a 15mm wrench.
21. Power steering pulley, take it off to see the bolts behind it. You will need a pully puller, go rent or buy one before you get started doing this.
22. Now take the 4 15mm Hex headed bolts out, 3 on the pump and 1 on the bracket. Keep up with bolts again.
23. Now zip-tie the PS pump to the inner fender well out of the way. It will stay there until we reinstall the engine.
24. AC, do the same with the AC compressor. 2 15mm Hex bolts on the side of the pump, and 2 on the bottom. Zip-tie it out of the way on the pass side.
25. Starter, 2 -13mm bolts and a 10mm bolt holding the flexplate access cover. You may have to play with it to get the starter out, time and patience my friend.
26. Now, while you're still under there, take the oil level connector off the oil pan and remove the 10mm bolt holding the harness on the fron of the oil pan.
27. Unbolt the exhaust collector. 3-15mm bolts hold it. Long extension needed or reccomended.
28. Remove 3 15mm bolts holding the flexplate and torque converter together. Use the hole you made with removeing the starter.
29. Remove all of the TRanny bolts you can, some are easier from the top, the top 2 anyway.
30. To get to the tranny bolts let's take the intake off. 10-8mm bolts hold the intake on and a few hoses and connectors. Clean around the itake before taking it off so you don't get **** in your ports.
31. Take the oil pressure sender and Knock sensors connector loose. May want to cover the ports at this time as well. Tape or shop towel whatever but do something.
32. Now disconnect the cam sensor connector and then remove the 10mm bolts hoding the brackets, about 3 I think. After this you'll be able to get to the other tranny bolts.
33. Now the motor mount bolts. 3-15mm bolts on each side, don't try to remove the engine until you take the loose.
34. Take the hood off now, if you haven't already. I would actuallly do it first but I am not changing it all now.
35. Start pulling, slowly and watching for anything you or me either one forgot. I'm sure I missed something so take your time and post up if know a different way/shortcut.
36. Start drinking your beer now. I wouldn't advise doing it until now though. lol. May tear something up.
Thanks for reading and if I can be of assistance please let me know.
Once again, a professional should at least be on hand while pewrforming this operation. Should you or anyone else get hurt I am not responsible. Should your vehicle get hurt or something go wrong I am not responsible. This is to be used as a guide only.
Have Fun with it.
2000_LS1
P.S. Be thankful you aren't doing it on a Camaro, Corvette or Firebird too. It's alot harder.
__________________
Hell...who knows what's next? 408 right now though.
EDIT THIS POST WAS MADE BY 2000 LS1. NOT BY MYSELF I JUST STUCK IT IN HERE.
__________________
1999 Silverado 4.8
Mods:
TSP HotTune, Cold Air Intake, IAT Mod, 160* T-Stat,Built 4L60E, TB Bypass, EGR Mod, 100 Shot Wet Nitrous, Duel Exhaust, Perma-cool transmission cooler,E-fans, Ported & Polished TB,
Cash,Grass or *** nobody rides for free.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Flyer : 04-18-2006 at 11:24 PM.
mason110
View Public Profile
Send a private message to mason110
Send email to mason110
Find More Posts by mason110
Add mason110 to Your Buddy List
04-19-2006, 03:23 AM #7
1slow01Z71
Master of Disaster
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Under the truck in Austin, TX
Posts: 12,155
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dropping your engine and lining it up with the bellhousing
Since the flexplate is mounted onto the back of the motor and it can be kind of difficult to get the flexplate in the bellhousing while getting the motor mounts lined up with the frame the easiest way to get everything lined up is to put a floor jack under the transmission, and jack it up as high as it will go without crushing the pan. Then, drop the motor down into the truck and it should be much easier to get the flexplate in and the motor mounts where they need to be at the same time.
__________________
01 ECSB Z71
Rex built 420, WCCH Edelbrock 245s, Vic Jr w/ 4Barrel TB, Nitrous Pro-Flow Plate System, STS GT67 w/ FMIC, 80e w/ shift kit, Built SF 14 Bolt, the list goes on...
1slow01Z71
View Public Profile
Send a private message to 1slow01Z71
Send email to 1slow01Z71
Find More Posts by 1slow01Z71
Add 1slow01Z71 to Your Buddy List
04-22-2006, 07:57 AM #8
thunder550
12 Second Truck Club
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 4,969
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Avoiding Hood removal.
TIP...you DO NOT have to remove your hood to get the engine out. There are two sets of bolt holes where the springs attach to the hood. The ones closest to the front of the hood are where the springs normally attach, and the set further back is called the "service position". If you remove the bolts and reattach the springs to the rear holes, the hood will stand almost vertically, and will be out of the way. See attached pic.
Attached Thumbnails
__________________
2001 Silverado Z71 ECSB
408 with some Callies, Diamond, and TSP PRC parts
235/239-600/580-113+4 Jones Cam Designs
PT76GTS, FMIC, Alkycontrol, EFILive tuning, Innovate LC-1
SSR intake manifold, UMI 90mm TB
Transformance 4L80E, Hughes 25-20L converter
Truetrac, 3.73's, Acceleronics Versafueler, 96# injectors
12.74@106, 1.87 60'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Flyer : 04-26-2006 at 05:25 AM.
