Jlm826

To start off I am very new to the idea of actually building an engine by myself as the most intensive thing I have ever done on a vehicle is swap an alternator, radiator, or water pump on a small 4 cylinder nissan hardbody, so by all means I am open to any suggestions or advice someone more knowledgeable then myself can impart on me. I do however have access to all the need equipment to actually do the build myself. My main concern is where should I start and if there is an alternative which would be better for my truck for the plans I have for it such as an LQ4 or 9 while I'm building on a budget of around 4500 dollars.

I have a 99 silverado with a 5.3 LM7 and a 4l60e transmission that have right at 260,000 miles on them and the truck is my daily driver and will be once the engine is built and installed. I'm not gonna have more then a few days tops once I pull my old engine out to install the new one so I am going to have to buy a new block to have on the side to build on then just swap them out over a weekend.

So for starters would it be smarter for me to buy just a stripped down 5.3 block and have it bored to 5.7 specs or try to find one someone has already had bored? I am not sure of any location for a machine shop around the Jackson, MS area. If I went this route I would probably have to swap over all the parts from the engine I am pulling out of my truck like oil pan, alternator, water pump, oil pump, etc. over that weekend while I switch the motors which I'm not sure would even be possible for someone of my skill level. If I bought the full motor I would have all the extra parts needed, but that would cut into my budget for the build which might not allow for all the accessories I want. I want to build the engine from the bottom up so I do not have to pull it back out once it is in so my first concern is the rods, pistons, and crank. I want to use forged pistons and rods so if down the road I decide to spray it I won't have a whole lot to worry about it messing up, but should I buy the new crank too to make it a 383 or would the stock crank hold up for say 100,000 miles with nitrous, but not being sprayed very often at all(probably will never see a track, just more for fun). If I did do the whole rotating assembly, what would be the best combination for the engine as in would I want ls6 pistons and rods? I want to get the largest amount of horsepower I can from the engine, but still know that it will run for a long time. More then likely down the road it will never see any boost just Nos.

Next I would want to put a cam in it, but again I'm not certain at all on what would be the best combination for my goals. I would eventually like to get new heads like ls6's, if it is obtainable in my budget, but if not then the stock heads would be going back on until I have the funding to do it. Also, what gasket set would I need if I were to do either combination of heads?

I know it is a lot to read, and I have tried to do as much research as possible but I haven't found anything that is an exact match to my situation and with me never doing this before I cant be too certain with what I am doing. So I want to start with the rotating assembly, then the cam, then heads, then intake and throttle body to work my way out of the engine and make future upgrades a lot easier on myself because it is the only vehicle I have to drive and can't just have it sitting around for days. Also, at what point in time during all these upgrades will the transmission not be able to hold anymore without being rebuilt? I know someone who said they can do it for me for around 1100 dollars with a 3600 stall. My budget would go up to around 5000-5500 if I did the transmission as well.

Thanks for any help. I'm always trying to learn from someone who knows more than I.

Phantom

iTrader: (16)

That's a long post and I didn't read all of it.

Do you already have the rotating assembly for the 383? Is there any reason in particular you want a 5.3 block?

The reason I ask is it will cost more at the machine shop to have the 5.3 block (3.78 bore) bored to ls1 + specs (3.903ish bore) because they'll have to bore it several times.

A 6.0 block can be had pretty cheap now days, bore it .030 and purchase a 408 rotating assembly. The 408 and 383 assembly pretty much cost the same because the only thing that is different is piston size. 3.903-3.905 for the 383 to 4.030 for the 408. You may be money ahead in the long run doing the 408 if you're going to have to purchase a block anyways

My .02

ltr450ryder

iTrader: (13)

Is go 408 like phantom said

Jlm826

I wanted the 5.3 because that is what is in my truck and I just figured that everything would bolt straight back up to it without having to replace everything else, but I have not actually purchased anything yet. Idk if the wiring harness and transmission, etc, would work if I did the 6.0 swap. I have no idea about what extra work would be involved switching the whole new engine in instead of the 5.3 lol, hince the reason I hope someone can kinda guide me on the right path before I do anything. I'm gonna plan everything out before I buy a single item so I dont end up wasting money on an already tight budget.

smoggist

The 6.0 based 408 will bolt in the same as any ls engine. But if I were you I wouldn't be planning on the tranny taking much more abuse. I'd step up to an 80e, especially of you go the 408 route.

Jlm826

Is that an LQ4 or 9? Will it literally use all the same things as the 5.3 or should I look for an engine that is together already to tear down and rebuild? I'm talking about harness, alternator, radiator, ac compressor everything. Also will the 4l80 just slide into place of the 4l60 or do I have to change out more parts along with it too? Sorry I just do not know very much about this model chevrolet.

rjwz28

All components for a 5.3 interchange with a 6.0. The 4L60-to-4L80 swap, however, is a more complicated affair.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Yes, everything is exactly the same between the engines except the internals. Furthermore, the only difference between the LQ4 and LQ9 is the LQ4 has slightly dished pistons whereas the LQ9s are flat tops.

Why are you even set on a new engine? Why not just boost/spray your current one?

A better question is what are your power goals to think you need a new engine? Unless you just want to build and swap an engine for fun.

greasemykey

iTrader: (5)

everything will bolt back up. the only reason i am doing a 383 over the 408 is because i like being different and i was to lazy to find another block. i would recommend installing the 80E as its stronger but a properly built 60E can handle a mild 408. as long as your not like some in here that do rolling burnouts and doughnuts like a 12 year old.

your budget is a very meager one if you are looking for a trans too. i have already spent over 5000 on just the 383 and the machine work still isnt done. may want to look at buying a low mileage LS1 and having your trans rebuilt to handle the added power.

Jlm826

I want a new engine because the one I have currently in my truck has 260,000 miles on it. I would just rebuild it but since I drive it everyday and have no other mode of transportation I have to buy a second one, build it, drop it, then probably sell my one now. It really is for fun, but also a learning experience because the small stuff I have done I really enjoy, and I have to start somewhere lol. I would like to be able to get between around 450 to 500 hp and tq just straight motor not spraying or boosting but that was with the 5.3. I'm not sure what it would be with the 6.0. Really my goals are to just have a strong, stout engine built all the way through that will last and give me good power without nitrous or boost. I do want forged internals though in case I ever do change my mind.

I'm sure the answer is yes but will the 6.0 bolt up to the 4l60? Just in case the prices are too different or I can only get one of a certain kind rebuilt. Would a rebuilt 60 with all aftermarket performance parts be able to hold the power from the 6.0?