383 ls6 or 402 6.0 stroker
#1
So I'm undecided as to what to do...
I have a ls6 blocked ls1 that I picked up for my 05 silverado, that will pretty much have paid for its self after I sell stuff off it down to the core. Now I am still torn though, should I just stroke and build this block to a 383 for my silverado, or would one of the LQ 6.0 blocks stroked to a 402 be more worth while? I know that 6.0 blocks are usually on the cheap, just couldn't find one and I came across this deal instead. The truck will be for 80% daily driver, 15% traffic light fun, and 5% at the track. I'm planning on keeping it N/A, and just had my sights set low on 13's, but would be even happier with 12's or lower. I want it to be reliable, done with a mild stall (with dd manners) and 3.73 gears. I know head selection for the 4" bore blocks is better and it offers more potential, but would there really be much of a difference between both if they are built equally? The ls6 block will shed atleast 80lbs off the nose, but as the old saying goes "there is no replacement for displacement." I'm just torn as to what to build off and if either would really make a difference for what I'm looking to do. Thankfully I am still just shopping for the project besides having the ls6 block.
I have a ls6 blocked ls1 that I picked up for my 05 silverado, that will pretty much have paid for its self after I sell stuff off it down to the core. Now I am still torn though, should I just stroke and build this block to a 383 for my silverado, or would one of the LQ 6.0 blocks stroked to a 402 be more worth while? I know that 6.0 blocks are usually on the cheap, just couldn't find one and I came across this deal instead. The truck will be for 80% daily driver, 15% traffic light fun, and 5% at the track. I'm planning on keeping it N/A, and just had my sights set low on 13's, but would be even happier with 12's or lower. I want it to be reliable, done with a mild stall (with dd manners) and 3.73 gears. I know head selection for the 4" bore blocks is better and it offers more potential, but would there really be much of a difference between both if they are built equally? The ls6 block will shed atleast 80lbs off the nose, but as the old saying goes "there is no replacement for displacement." I'm just torn as to what to build off and if either would really make a difference for what I'm looking to do. Thankfully I am still just shopping for the project besides having the ls6 block.
#2
If its more of a DD then I would stick with the aluminum block, lighter and it will suck less gas. And if you really want a 12 sec. slip then just spray a little at it. There should be no reason why the built 383 shouldn't take a little 75 hit
#4
I've read of the valve unshrouding, as well as the fact that there are just more head choices for 4" bore blocks. Just not sure if it all makes it more worth while since you'll gain a little more hp, but still have more weight on the nose.
As for my build heres the main things I'm looking at:
Callies compstar crank and rods
Wiseco flat top pistons (-2 or -3cc)
AFR heads
Pat G spec'ed cam
2800-3000 circle D stall (want it to still have nice manners)
3.73 gears
All going into a 2wd 05 Silverado Ecsb
As for my build heres the main things I'm looking at:
Callies compstar crank and rods
Wiseco flat top pistons (-2 or -3cc)
AFR heads
Pat G spec'ed cam
2800-3000 circle D stall (want it to still have nice manners)
3.73 gears
All going into a 2wd 05 Silverado Ecsb
#5
I went with a Aluminum LS1 because the weight,Its a Vette Motor(sounds cooler lol),and was around the same price for a shortblock..Plus I already had my PRC 5.3 heads originally purchased for my truck motor...It should also do a little better on Gas...My old radix lq9 truck ran mid 12's and I can tell you right now my GMC with a h/c 346 ci feels quicker, definately up top...
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