I have 3.42's in my truck, but first let me tell you what I have done

asp pulley, KN FPIK, Borla exhaust, and waiting for the install of a 215/220 .600/.532 114.5+2 cam with 918 springs, thunder racing pushrods, LS6 oil pump and JWIS timing chain.

Well for the past 2 days my trans is starting to slip...again. I am not messing with the dealership anymore. My buddys drag racing friend said he would rebuild it for 800 with a transgo, servos, red alto bands etc and I thought it would be the perfect time to add a stall. Thinking a 3000 yank or TCI. I already have a hudge transmission cooler so I am not worrying about it anymore. I realize that a Eaton unit is a must with a hard lockup of the rearend but should I keep the 3.42 or go with a 3.90 with such a big stall? What are the 3.42 good for? My truck seems dead at 40 but pulls hard at 70 with a downshift? Would the 3.90's have a deadspot and would they pull hard through the gears? I am also getting Nelson tune and Dynatech supermaxx long tubes.

 

TTT

Im wondering the same thing

 

I would do 3.90's with that cam you will installing.

 

If your trans is slipping it's quite possibly an electronic,
not mechanical problem. I don't think a 5.3, even with
a baby cam, is going to put the hurt on the transmission
without there being something else going on. Like with
that FIPK, are you oiling it and if so, when is the last
time you cleaned your MAF? Give it a shower and see
if the tranny stops slipping. Also the stock tranny tables
seem to reduce line pressure when it gets hot. Are you
beating on it, without a tranny cooler?

As ***-light as an unloaded pickup is, it seems to me like
going up in gear ratio and putting a converter on there is
just going to make for a total traction loss. If you go with
something like the TCI 3000/2.2 I have, I expect you could
just make smoke all the way through 1st and well into 2nd
with 3.42s let alone anything higher-ratio.

Dead spots are more about suck-*** factory tuning than
any gear ratio. A converter with a reasonable stall will do
a nice "cover-up" but you can take that stall speed
powerband bonus and make the shiftpoints proper, and
it will really be a whole 'nother truck.

If you actually use this truck for towing, be advised
that a lot of the car converters seem a little "light in
the loafers" as far as the torque converter clutch goes.
If you want engine braking then you may need to do
more programming but also likely want to get a multi-
disc clutch to hold fast at moderate to low line. If
you're just sport-truck'n though, a hot rod converter
is not so inappropriate. Some trucks have to haul,
though, so you can't just assume car parts is truck
parts.

 

I do have a Hayden transmisson cooler, and I only punched it once today when it happend. I will thought clean the MAF sensor again, the last time I did that was about 3 months ago. I was a idot and descreened the MAF so I might have to invest in a new MAF sensor. I really appreciate the help though Jimmyblue, you dont see to many camaro or firebird guys come in the truck section to help us out. I did though had the transmission so called rebuilt from the dealership in May. They said the 2-4 band was worn out. It was because I had the settings for my programmer set to high for the transmission so I lowered the line preasure and installed a vette servo. Then after the rebuilt it had to go back again, becasue the valve body got gunked up and it was slipping again (that what the dealership told me). I have had nothing but problems with the 4l60e. I will probley go with the Truck Thuster yank 3000 since it is made for our trucks.

 

Lowered line may be part of it. I reprofiled my force motor
table (to bring line up earlier so my converter clutch slip
would reduce) but I left the endpoint settings the same
and just changed the shape of the curve. I'm a bit baffled
by people saying that shift presssure, or even force motor
settings could damage the trans as the full pressure is seen
at WOT, as-factory, anyway.

Are you seeing the slip at WOT, or mid-throttle?

 

just chiming in you can still get gears and a converter i know plenty of people that have that combination and as long as you dont just go WOT they dont really break loose and a limited slip or positrac will help that out tremendously so i still recommend gears but everything you ask for is opinion so take it all in stride and hope all the feedaback help out

 

I am only seeing slippage at WOT

 

I Have 01 Step Side Ran 13.09 I Have Put Headers And Ptc Converter
Will Find Out What It Runs For The Thunder Shoot Out. I Am Running 10" Converter With 4.56 Gears On Toyo R1 . I Just Got The New M/t Street Tires For The Shoot Out. 3.90 Would Be Great Do You Tow Alot With Your Truck Call Ptc 1-256-383-6868 Ask For Kenny.

 

I dont tow at all. I wil probley go with 3.90 gears and a vigilante 2800 verter. Only because when you order one of their verters, they ask what gears you run, rpm shift points etc. I think it would be a better setup, because everything you are using is taken in consideration.