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243 or 706 heads? (LQ4 + Torque Cam + TBSS Intake)

Old Dec 19, 2019 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
OP.. The lockup is super important especially for you with towing. However the stock one has been handling it and has for many other people.. so the Circle D should have at least as good as a lock up as the OE converter. But I would absolutely do the billet front cover and I would absolutely do the 2400 stall. My 2014 OE converter stalls around 2400 and I love it. And since it's a stock stall it feels stock and that 2400 would probably also. 2400 is a wimpy stall speed, it's not gonna feel loose and sloppy like you may be thinking, but it will make a big difference in acceleration and make the truck feel a lot more zippy/less lazy down low... makes it a lot of fun to drive.
Thanks so much for the first hand input on the stall speed. You've helped convince me. Your thoughts on the TCC are appreciated as well.

Originally Posted by Jeebalow
​​​​​​​ I for one, really appreciate the insight as I am sure the OP will too!
Agreed, I appreciate all input / advice. That's why I'm here and you guys do not disappoint!

Originally Posted by madmann26
You can’t go wrong with either PI or CircleD.

I’ve had 3 CircleD converters and have loved them all.
Originally Posted by ZO6Ted
PI was absolutely great to deal with in my case. When I wasn't happy with my 10.5 because I couldn't get it to stall what I wanted they took it back and sent me a brand new 9.5 triple. I since had it tightened on another build. Never any issues.
So both companies are great... Now I have to make a decision. haha

Originally Posted by stroker87
if they have the hollow stem valves slightly longer valve they are corvette heads used on LS6 engines only (c5 zo6's) the high dollar money heads, when GM started using them on the 5.3 they was no longer hollow light weight valves and those you can get for less then $300, the reason guy are after the LS6 243's is in higher RPM's the valve train is more stable since the valves are lighter

i thought the 243's was more desirable for the larger intake Valve they offer 2.00 in over the 706's 1.89 in? i know the 706's might raise compression .5 over the 243's but even when gm put them on 5.3's HP was bumped up just from the head change i believe, 243's just plan flow better so why not use a better flowing head stock? are you confused with the 799 heads that are the same as 243's but just cast differently?
Thanks for the insight. In this case I'm going with the 706 for the CR bump because from what I've seen, I'm not going to reaching into the rpm ranges that see the 706 heads drop off. I'm going for the compression bump because it will net me power down low too.
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Old Dec 19, 2019 | 08:18 PM
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So final choices:


A. CircleD HP Series 300mm, 2200rpm - 2400rpm, Single Woven Carbon Disc, Upgraded Billet Front Cover, 1 year warranty, $600.
-- Pro: Price. That money can be used somewhere else.
-- Con: 1 year warranty, Single DIsc(Maybe. Might be plenty strong enough.)

B. PI Vigilante 10.5", 2400rpm, Multi-disc, Forged & CNC Machined Front Cover, 5 Year Warranty, $1,025.
-- Pro: Multi-disc, 5 Year Warranty. Going all out feels pretty good sometimes.
--Con: Price

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Old Dec 19, 2019 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Wellarmedlamb
Thanks for the insight. In this case I'm going with the 706 for the CR bump because from what I've seen, I'm not going to reaching into the rpm ranges that see the 706 heads drop off. I'm going for the compression bump because it will net me power down low too.
honestly i really cant say witch is better for you the "maybe" .5 bump in compression or the better flow of the 243's? i guess it really would come down to if your doing bolt's to support the flow of the 243's if not then maybe the bump in compression from 706's will be better?
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Wellarmedlamb
So final choices:


A. CircleD HP Series 300mm, 2200rpm - 2400rpm, Single Woven Carbon Disc, Upgraded Billet Front Cover, 1 year warranty, $600.
-- Pro: Price. That money can be used somewhere else.
-- Con: 1 year warranty, Single DIsc(Maybe. Might be plenty strong enough.)

B. PI Vigilante 10.5", 2400rpm, Multi-disc, Forged & CNC Machined Front Cover, 5 Year Warranty, $1,025.
-- Pro: Multi-disc, 5 Year Warranty. Going all out feels pretty good sometimes.
--Con: Price
I wouldn’t get hung up on the warranty. Most places only warranty race parts for 90 days.

Chris @CircleD will take care of you no matter what.
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by madmann26
I wouldn’t get hung up on the warranty. Most places only warranty race parts for 90 days.

Chris @CircleD will take care of you no matter what.

Thanks for that. I think I will go with the CricleD.. I struggle to not go with the overkill option as a default. haha

In this particular situation, would you suggest a heavier duty flexplate or should the OEM unit be fine?
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Wellarmedlamb
Thanks for that. I think I will go with the CricleD.. I struggle to not go with the overkill option as a default. haha

In this particular situation, would you suggest a heavier duty flexplate or should the OEM unit be fine?
OEM will work fine.
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Wellarmedlamb
Thanks for that. I think I will go with the CricleD.. I struggle to not go with the overkill option as a default. haha

In this particular situation, would you suggest a heavier duty flexplate or should the OEM unit be fine?

OEM is fine, I agree with that.

But just some thoughts.. I got a SFI approved flex plate from Yank with my last stall and I think it was only $70. I went for it for peace of mind and because it didn't cost much. See if Circle D offers one for a good price with the converter. Really, the only reason I would change it is about 1 in a million flex plates crack and for the $70 or so I just felt it was worth taking care of while in there. They do it on bone stock cars even, but I do have to say I think it may be an issue of the past too. I'm not sure if I've ever seen or heard of a cracked one on LS applications but back int the day cracked flex plates were a thing so I just swapped mine so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

That being said, I wouldn't worry a bit if you didn't change it either.


Oh and lastly, I will say guys that do their first stall and choose to go conservative on the stall speed always end up wishing they would have gone higher. I say that because I bet you're debating on going with the 2200-2400 vs the lower speed stalls. I also say that because I was that guy before too. Long story short, I highly doubt you'll regret the higher speed you chose.

Last edited by 00pooterSS; Dec 23, 2019 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 01:49 PM
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I'll add my 2 cents to this conversation lol

If you do get the level II Performabuilt 4L65e they will send you a very small cooler that you must use or they will void the warranty. They also want you to bypass the original cooler in the radiator. I'm running a Circle D 3200 stall and with the small cooler I was getting transmission temps well over 200* when summer rolled around. Switched the dinky cooler for a 40K Tru-Cool and the temps never see more than 170* beating the hell out of it on a 100 degree summer day. With towing and more heat from the stall... the 40K will serve you well.

Compare the tiny sized Peformabuilt cooler to the 40K

243 or 706 heads? (LQ4 + Torque Cam + TBSS Intake)-cd7fgzi.jpg

243 or 706 heads? (LQ4 + Torque Cam + TBSS Intake)-1kumhch.jpg

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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 01:54 PM
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Da fuq @RedXray !!

I'm surprised that cooler cooled it that well tbh.

For OP, the TruCool 40k is the way to go.
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 02:24 PM
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From my personal experience with my wife's truck which is a 03 2500hd I put a Gt2-3 cam in with p&p 862's with 2inch valves and lt headers and it is nite and day difference from the 317's. Better gas mileage and it hauls butt and I didn't even touch the stock torque converter
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