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2011 5.3 lc9 upgraded with questions

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Old 08-29-2018, 05:40 AM
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Default 2011 5.3 lc9 upgraded with questions

Hello everyone!
I own a 2011 Silverado with the 5.3 lc9 I did some
upgrades(first time in this deep). I called tsp looking for a mild cam that would give me noticeable performance over stock that wasn’t overkill for a daily driver or wouldn’t require me to swap out my converter at the time I did the work, I was told the cam I got would be a good fit for what I was looking for(mind you I’m not all that well knowledgeable when it comes to cams) and would also have a decent noticeable lope. It’s the vvt 212 216 .600 112 lsa by Tsp. Also at the same time I installed the cam I did the dod delete with the ls6 style lifters, hardened push rods, new pac valve springs, non dod valley cover and I did a box tune for now with diablo sport currently on the mid grade tune and deleted the dod in the tuner. And yes I did the limiter block in the cam phaser to. I already have cat back dual exhaust after market air filter. Also have long tubes yet to be on the truck.. the install went smoothly and the truck sounds great but long and behold I lost low end torque (couldn’t do a brake torque if I wanted to) I’ve tried lol. But my high end (2500-3000 rpm and over is better than before). With regular cruising speeds on the highway I rpm at about 1900 rpm which seems normal to me which would make me believe my tc wouldn’t be the issue(correct me if I’m wrong please!). And makes me thing it’s more the gearing I have which I found to be the 3.73 gears and also I ride on 33 inch tires which I’m sure doesn’t help! Looking for some expert or (I’ve already done this advice). Would going to the 410 gears with a bit smaller tires help give me some of that low end back? Or do I need to look into a higher stall torque concerted?

Also my my check engine light stays on for the cam position sensor which after looking around I’m sure relates to the limiting block in my cam phaser (maybe calling for more advance or retard but can’t get there?). I eventually want to delete the vvt all together which I should have just done while I was in there! But is there a way to clear this code for good? Something they can do come time for a dyno tune? And is it negatively affecting my engine even though it seems to run just fine? I know a lot of questions lol I’m learning and trying to learn all I can so please forgive me if i am asking stupid question or if you need any more details. Thanks for the input in advance!
Old 08-29-2018, 10:22 AM
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I would say that camshaft moved your power band up higher, losing 30-40 ft lbs of torque on the bottom. Gearing and a higher stall converter can spin the motor into that powerband faster at the expense of driveability. It's better to go small on a camshaft.

Do you have 3.42 gears? I run about 1700 rpms @ 70 mph on stock size tires. A shorter tire should turn more rpms.
Old 08-29-2018, 03:53 PM
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A real tune could take advantage of the VVT camshaft and help you. No way a mail order diablo tune is anywhere close to getting the tune where it should be.
Old 08-29-2018, 04:09 PM
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As posted a tune, gears and a converter. I'd contact your local tuner(s) and see how far they are back logged. A good tuner usually has a back log of people waiting. My tuner is three months. The waiting time will give you time to install those long tubes and make sure they're no leaks, install a converter and maybe some gears. You could also purchase the HPtuners and do e-mail tunes if you don't mind the learning curve... If it fits in the budget.
Old 08-29-2018, 06:43 PM
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All great advice!
Old 09-03-2018, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by swathdiver
I would say that camshaft moved your power band up higher, losing 30-40 ft lbs of torque on the bottom. Gearing and a higher stall converter can spin the motor into that powerband faster at the expense of driveability. It's better to go small on a camshaft.

Do you have 3.42 gears? I run about 1700 rpms @ 70 mph on stock size tires. A shorter tire should turn more rpms.
thats what my guess was leaning towards too was my power band being shifted up but was told and seen reviews of this cam being so mild that it shouldn’t have to have a tc upgrade I assumed it was because of my bigger tires and 373 gears that maybe if I upgraded gears to 410 and had some smaller tires it would maybe even out a bit
Old 09-03-2018, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by FFDP
A real tune could take advantage of the VVT camshaft and help you. No way a mail order diablo tune is anywhere close to getting the tune where it should be.
thats kind of where I’m leaning now I had got the diablo as a get me by for now as every place I called was a month and a half out for dyno testing, I got the cam from Texas speed it’s their own cut cam guess. I’ve read they do a lot of good things with the vvt phaser table that’s why I was considering them for the mail order
Old 09-03-2018, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RedXray
As posted a tune, gears and a converter. I'd contact your local tuner(s) and see how far they are back logged. A good tuner usually has a back log of people waiting. My tuner is three months. The waiting time will give you time to install those long tubes and make sure they're no leaks, install a converter and maybe some gears. You could also purchase the HPtuners and do e-mail tunes if you don't mind the learning curve... If it fits in the budget.
I’m actually back and forth on the headers for now I’m looking to start a new rebuild with either the 5.3 or 6.0 so I’m not sure I want to waste my time doing the headers atm but if just a tune can fix my problem atleast somewhat for now until I’m ready to do the swap I’ll do the tc and gears while the truck is down and out.. hp tuners is something I’ve really been looking into learning as I’d like to be able to do some of this stuff on my own but I want to know and research a lot before I start jumping in! Is it pretty easy to understand and learn for someone with common sense lol



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