XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

16" rims and 6 lugs suck(for certain things <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ) and so do the 16" tire choices!! <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />

Has anyone ever seen/done/heard of a conversion to get rid of the big *** brakes for something a little smaller that will allow a common 15" rim to fit without problems.

Also, what about converting over to a standard GM 5 lug pattern. I don't want to use the conversion pieces on the rear, I'm talking a true 5 lug setup. What would be involved?

I am sick of looking at the exact 15" tire/rim combo I want and knowing I can't have it. <img border="0" alt="[shoot]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

If anyone knows of a shop that deals in stuff like this that might be able to help, PM/email me.

Thanks for reading/listening to me vent. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

John <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

Maybe a complete rear axle assembly from a 88-98 2wd will bolt on with minor modifications???

OneFastSilverado

How come you want to go smaller when the trend is going big? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nathan:
<strong> How come you want to go smaller when the trend is going big? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">For what I'm doing to my truck the 15" rims/tires are more practical. I don't think 18's+ would allow for much traction with a 422ci motor smackn'm around. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> It would be nice if some of these tire companies would start making some drag/street tires in bigger sizes but, I don't think that's going to happen in the timeframe I'm looking for. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Cash - I was thinking of some upgraded axles with the 5 lug pattern and using some brakes off an older truck. That might be the ticket. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

John

JSmith

iTrader: (5)

John,
You could swap the axles from a 98 truck unless the length and spline are different and then get rid of the drum brakes and go with an aftermarket disc setup. I'm sure Baer or Brembo has something. I know what you mean about wheel choices. There are a TON of 5 lugs that I would've liked to use on my Silverado but as you know we've got 6 lugs.

Seeing Red Again

They don't make the rims you want in a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern? That's a fairly common bolt pattern since other manufacturers, like toyota and even older Jeeps, used it too.

You can also contact Moser Engineering to see if they would redrill your rear axle shaft flanges to the 5 on 5.5" pattern. They will redrill some, depending on how much strength it will take away from the axle. If they think your axle would be OK to do that, then it would be a matter of swapping rotors if the factory ones don't fit a 15" rim. (Not if the front could be done in a similar matter though.)

Another consideration is how well do our factory rear axles hold up to serious power? Do our trucks still run the GM 10 bolt (I haven't looked). IF they are any thing like the 10 bolts of old, they had 30 spline axle shafts with C-clips - a pretty weak combination. I'm not sure if they have improved them, or stepped up to a beefier unit, like the 12bolt, with our trucks.

A 35 spline dana 60 or ford 9" rear will certainly beef things up back there, and take care of that bolt pattern for ya (in the rear anyhow)!

GREGGO

iTrader: (2)

I was just fixing to say suck it up and get a 9" and be done with it. Then I saw the last thing wrote. I totally agree with that statement. </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A 35 spline dana 60 or ford 9" rear will certainly beef things up back there, and take care of that bolt pattern for ya (in the rear anyhow)! </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Greg

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Hey thanks for the suggestions everybody.

I think the 10 bolt will handle the motor N/A with a few upgrades.(Locker or Eaton, steel ring gear cap, stock 3.42 gears <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> , heavy duty cover, axle tube braces) Is there any way to get rid of the c clips though? I haven't seen any eliminators. If I decide to spray it once I get everything together and tuned in I'll go for the 10.5" 14 bolt swap or a 9". There are places that sell custom assemblies that "bolt in". <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I just found out that Hoosier is coming out with a 31" Pro street radial for a 17" wheel in a few weeks and I think that is what I'll go with for the street.(It might require the springs to be relocated, I haven't checked) I don't know if these things will hook at the track but, if they did I could easily go thru the traps in second gear(1.48 in the 4L80E) with the stock 3.42's <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

If I have to run a slick I guess the Hoosier 28*10*16 on a 16*8 rim will do but, I'd either have to switch to a 3.23 gear and lock the converter up to run thru in second(~6350rpm) or go to 4.10's and cross the traps at ~5700rpm in third.

I guess I should've waited until I heard back from Hoosier before I asked about going to 15" rims. I guess I have the Lightning and Viper guys to thank because they are the ones these new tire sizes were developed for.

Now to find some 17" 6 lug rims that I like. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

John

Seeing Red Again

hmmmm.... I never took tire size into the equation about running second gear out. I have 3.42 gears as well. Thanks for the comment.

I've never heard of too many positive remarks about c-clip eliminators anyhow. Are there any rules about requiring c-clip eliminators when you get below a certain time in the quarter? I thought I heard that from one of the Mustang guys back in the days (they ran the old c-clip 8.8).

On the plus side, disk brakes will keep the shaft in the housing if you break one. Plus, if you run a spool or full blown locker like a detroit, you'll be able to get off the track, and maybe even home with the broken axle shaft. I think Moser will make you some replacement axle shafts at like $150 each, though they cut their splines rather that roll them (rolling is a little stronger). That brings me to the only plus side about c-clip axles - they are easy to replace!

BTW, 14-bolts are some heavy bitches! <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by srb 95yj:
<strong> BTW, 14-bolts are some heavy bitches! <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If I sprayed I don't think I'd be too worried about that. <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" /> That is why I would like to try and keep the stock 10 bolt just running on motor though. Less weight and drivetrain loss. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

John