What NOT to do!
#1
Ive recently learned a few things. When dealing with a turbo LS....
I broke my built 4l80e OD sprag assy. The reason this happened, I'm told, is that because I done repeated highway pulls with the shifter in the OD position the sprag wasn't supported and couldn't hold the power. If the shifter is in a manual gear selection, 1,2,or 3, the Overrun clutch assy is engaged and supports the sprag and is not as likely to fail.

The other thing id like to share is my torque converter. I've destroyed the single disk clutch in m y converter due to the TCC settings. I was relying on the Base tune i got set up with from a reputable company. I didn't realize til now that it was set to factory settings and that was keeping it engaged when it shouldn't have been. The converter has been through over 20 dyno pulls, burnouts and street pulls. looking at the color of the billet front it has got really hot!!! SO, if u run a single disk and over 10# of boost i suggest u adjust your TCC settings so that its only engaged at low TPS or just in OD and set the disable TPS to where ever u start to build boost. I can build full boost at 30% throttle with a 102mm throttle body.

Maybe this is all common knowledge to the experenced guys but to all u new guys i just wanted to make u aware.
Thanks
I broke my built 4l80e OD sprag assy. The reason this happened, I'm told, is that because I done repeated highway pulls with the shifter in the OD position the sprag wasn't supported and couldn't hold the power. If the shifter is in a manual gear selection, 1,2,or 3, the Overrun clutch assy is engaged and supports the sprag and is not as likely to fail.

The other thing id like to share is my torque converter. I've destroyed the single disk clutch in m y converter due to the TCC settings. I was relying on the Base tune i got set up with from a reputable company. I didn't realize til now that it was set to factory settings and that was keeping it engaged when it shouldn't have been. The converter has been through over 20 dyno pulls, burnouts and street pulls. looking at the color of the billet front it has got really hot!!! SO, if u run a single disk and over 10# of boost i suggest u adjust your TCC settings so that its only engaged at low TPS or just in OD and set the disable TPS to where ever u start to build boost. I can build full boost at 30% throttle with a 102mm throttle body.

Maybe this is all common knowledge to the experenced guys but to all u new guys i just wanted to make u aware.
Thanks
#5
So you're saying you don't want converter lockup at all during WOT pulls? Basically adjust it so it locks in overdrive while cruising and light throttle driving? I'll also remember D2 and D3 selections when mobbing it or burnouts.
I just swapped my 4l80e in yesterday, this is all so new to me. No turbo on mine yet, but soon it will.
I just swapped my 4l80e in yesterday, this is all so new to me. No turbo on mine yet, but soon it will.
#7
Would really apply to any transmission! I wouldnt want to rely on the 4-5-6 in a 6l80 to hold any real power, although the tcm should keep it in whatever gear it needed to be in. I would assume adjusting the tcc settings in a 6l80 would be a good thing asmany issues asthey have with converters anyway....
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#8
Nope, completely different.
6L80e aren't setup on the inside like an older 4 speed, they are "clutch to clutch" transmissions.
From a circle D artical.
6L80e aren't setup on the inside like an older 4 speed, they are "clutch to clutch" transmissions.
Another major departure from past GM transmissions is that the 6L80E has no bands-just clutches-and relies heavily on electronics for all aspects of operation. By eliminating the bands, GM reduced the number of torque-handling components inside the transmission while also improving shift quality. The downside is that the timing of clutch engagement and disengagement, as well as clearances, must be very precise in order to prevent internal damage. Even at stock horsepower levels, Circle D reports that properly tuning the 6L80E is critical to transmission longevity. "The 6L80E is a clutch-to-clutch unit, which means that unless one clutch engages at exactly the same time that another clutch is disengaging, the transmission will bind up. That's where the electronics and tuning come into play," explains Kyle. "When GM builds the 6L80E at the factory, it installs a control module directly to the valve body. It houses all the pressure control solenoids, shift solenoids, and the transmission control module in one sealed unit. There are tons of electronic adjustments that can be made to alter clutch pressures and apply times for durability. The factory tune is good until you start putting more power through the trans. Once that happens, the clutches start slipping on initial apply, which messes up the timing. Depending on a customer's needs, we can modify the transmission control module so it's custom tailored to a specific application using HP Tuners software."
#10
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Do pulls in d3, but when you do a burnout start out in 1st then move the shifter to 3 and make sure it's shifts to 3. If you let off when it's in second at high rpm it puts tremendous stress on the input drum since it sounds at double engine rpm the other direction.
When I do tunes I set the tcc to only engage in 4th at less than 40% throttle and unlock easily. I don't belive in locking it under power.






