GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

We've been throwing around a few ideas around here and need some advice

Old Apr 4, 2005 | 07:50 AM
  #11  
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When I talked to Calvert about the GP, they suggested running Rancho 9000's in back and a shock called a Carrera 9010 up front. There's a company in GA that makes those shocks called Ellis Engineering, I got the number if anyone wants them. Calvert suggested running the Rancho's at abotu a 5 to start with and move up if needed.

They said often times the problem with running the bars is the rear wnts to lift up on a good launch. That's because of the shock not being stiff enough. What happens is the front raises up, and sits over the back, you hook, the back starts to lift once the power is delivered and momentum starts up, cancelling out any ad all weight transfer.

He also suggested running 1/2 to 3/4 turn pre-load on the bars.

I gotta say, watching my videos from the other night, the rear doesn't squat at all. I did have one run that it hooked hard off the line and about 30-40 feet out it just blew the tires loose. I'll get it up so you can see it too.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #12  
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I guess it's worth saying too, that being said above,I'm still running stock shocks.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:25 AM
  #13  
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Here's that video I was talking about. It shows the truck just fall about 30-40 feet out. You can almost see it pick back up after letting off and getting back in.

Right Click, Save As
http://www.woracing.com/truck/videos...@%20110.63.wmv
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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If you look at most any drag setup (cars) you will see a stiff rear and light front. However it is a little different for our trucks because of the severly unballanced weight distribution. But I think the key is still a light front and a simi-stiff rear. I have noticed that my truck does a little better when I have the helper bags aired up to where the truck is level when I have the 26" ETs on. This stiffens up the rear but still allows for a negative rake on launch to help in weight transfer. When I dont have much air in the bags, the rear is lighter and I have a negative rake prior with the suspension unloaded, my 60's tend to suffer a bit. Like F8L said earlier, you are wasting power when the truck squats. Instead of going forward, it is going down.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 11:11 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by BADMOFO
Has anyone removed their front swaybar?

Several of us have at the track. Seems to help a little, but never did any before and after runs to compare.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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The body doesn' squat. It tries to seperate from the rear end. Running a stiffer spring in the rear will plant it harder. In the rear, the shock is the key. Of course, a leaf suspension is not your best option in the first place.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by slowprocess
Since the truck hauls absolutely nothing, would it be benefitial at all to remove the overload springs in hopes of a softer rear leaf spring setup? It just seems that the rear end would dip alittle easier without them.
Before I installed my djm hangers, I had the "backyard" drop in the rear. While trying different things, I pulled the overload spring out and lowered the truck about 3/4". The result was a lot of wheel hop. That would probably be taken care of with the caltracs. I don't really remember how comfortable the ride was though...
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