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Well I did the rear disc swap

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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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Default Well I did the rear disc swap

Got real tired of the dang pulsation, grinding, etc., so I found a guy parting out a 2000 silvy, and bought the complete rear for $175 bux. Got everything on, and i have bled the living crap out of the brakes, and still have a weak pedal. Gonna go buy some new pads for the front and rear tomorrow, really hope that helps. The swap was pretty straight forward, only thing that is a little different, is the flanges. i noticed on the disc rear, the flanges were positioned diagonal, while my drum rears flanges were more straight and squared, this positions the caliper a little higher up on the rotor. Will get some pics up soon, later guys
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Did you install the calipers with the bleeder valve up or down? Should be up, if not it'll trap air and you'll never have a good pedal.

Also sometimes air can get in the ABS module thing and it takes a scan tool to cycle the valves to get it out.

I recently re-did all 4 corners of mine and bled that thing all night, went through two bottles of brake fluid.....never could get my original hard pedal back. SOme say if you give it awhile the air will eventually find its way out through the master cylinder...I think thats what hapened with mine cause over time the pedal got harder again and I checked the master cyl again and its like 1/2" low. Meaning the air got out and fluid replaced it.

Also you could try "gravity bleeding" where you just loosen the valves and its supposed to eventually push the air out, but I never had good luck with that method.

And make sure you bleed the brakes starting from the farthest point from the mastercylinder. I.E. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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It is possible that the calipers are positioned in such a way that the bleeders are not the highest point on the caliper, which will make bleeding the air difficult. It may be necessary to unbolt the caliper from the bracket and reposition it so that the bleeder is the highest point on the caliper with a block to keep the piston from coming out.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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Did you use a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes with? If not, go to Autozone and purchase this, it will make bleeding the brakes on your vehicle a million times better and go alot more smoothly. For $30 bucks you can't really beat it.

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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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I let it "gravity" bleed for awhile, fluid dripped constantly, pumped them with the motor running, and off, try again tomorrow with new pads. thanks for the info
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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I've never had good luck with those "1 man pumping" guns, they let out too much pressure.

There is no way like the old way IMO. Wife pumps brakes and hold, I release valve and tighten, repeat lol.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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This is the good one, not the cheap *** 8 dollar ones, those are the ones that do not work, I tried to bleed the brakes on my 400EX with one, got pissed and went and bought the Mighty-vac.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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I borrowed my dads gun from craftsman and it was junk. Just sayin
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 1LOW4X4
Also sometimes air can get in the ABS module thing and it takes a scan tool to cycle the valves to get it out.
This would be my first thought...did the master cylinder run dry while you were bleeding? If so, you'll probably need a TechII to do the bleeding procedure. Also, be sure that the "new" calipers are moving smoothly and the sliders aren't seized or binding, as this will also allow for a weak pedal.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:36 PM
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yeah I forgot. since those calipers are used you'd need to compress the pistons all the way down, this will push the junk out and allow them to move freely.
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