transfer case fluid
10-20-2010, 02:54 PM
#22
I would recommend an anaerobic gasket maker like loctite 518 or 515 (or similar permatex product) instead of silicone RTV for sealing the flanges. The anaerobic gasket maker cures in the absence of air, so it will only cure where the flanges are. What squishes out into the oil will stay liquid and won't be as likely to clog the screen like RTV chunks would.
10-20-2010, 03:44 PM
#23
I would recommend an anaerobic gasket maker like loctite 518 or 515 (or similar permatex product) instead of silicone RTV for sealing the flanges. The anaerobic gasket maker cures in the absence of air, so it will only cure where the flanges are. What squishes out into the oil will stay liquid and won't be as likely to clog the screen like RTV chunks would.
This permatex ultra black is what I use on many of the engine components I build with. I've taken them back apart after several years and always found it intact. It's pretty sturdy stuff and doesn't soften with exposure to oil or heat. In fact the **** is so strong it is very difficult to get off an oil pan etc. that has been sealed with it. I think I will be fine...I used it very sparingly. What you see in that pic is a finger's smudge, just enough thickness to cover the aluminum, like 1/32" thick. There is only a tiny amount of squeeze out on the outside edge...and if you notice I tried not to put any within the last 1mm of space on the inside for that very reason.
10-20-2010, 07:57 PM
#25
I've read that the factory sealed the case with an "anaerobic sealer" like you mention. This may or may not be accurate, but if it is, a fat lot of good it did.
This permatex ultra black is what I use on many of the engine components I build with. I've taken them back apart after several years and always found it intact. It's pretty sturdy stuff and doesn't soften with exposure to oil or heat. In fact the **** is so strong it is very difficult to get off an oil pan etc. that has been sealed with it. I think I will be fine...I used it very sparingly. What you see in that pic is a finger's smudge, just enough thickness to cover the aluminum, like 1/32" thick. There is only a tiny amount of squeeze out on the outside edge...and if you notice I tried not to put any within the last 1mm of space on the inside for that very reason.
This permatex ultra black is what I use on many of the engine components I build with. I've taken them back apart after several years and always found it intact. It's pretty sturdy stuff and doesn't soften with exposure to oil or heat. In fact the **** is so strong it is very difficult to get off an oil pan etc. that has been sealed with it. I think I will be fine...I used it very sparingly. What you see in that pic is a finger's smudge, just enough thickness to cover the aluminum, like 1/32" thick. There is only a tiny amount of squeeze out on the outside edge...and if you notice I tried not to put any within the last 1mm of space on the inside for that very reason.
I know from my experience with my KTM and from some reading on KTMTalk that RTV sealant destroys ktm motors, RTV oozing out into the motor seems to be enough to cake up the oil pickups and starve the motor. With the loctite 518 it doesn't seem to be a problem so
That is what I tend to use now.
10-20-2010, 09:01 PM
#26
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/ap.../1/detail.aspx
10-21-2010, 11:56 AM
#27
I went to the dealership and said "give me the stuff you use to seal the AutoTrak transfercase with, and this is what they gave me:
GM Gasket Maker PN 1052943...the **** was really expensive though, over 20 bux IIRC
Here's a pic of the revised Tcase pump clip:
Some of the sealer that I found clogging my tcase pump pickup:
More pics and info here:
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...+Level7&page=3
GM Gasket Maker PN 1052943...the **** was really expensive though, over 20 bux IIRC
Here's a pic of the revised Tcase pump clip:
Some of the sealer that I found clogging my tcase pump pickup:
More pics and info here:
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...+Level7&page=3
