GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

trans cooler lines

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:28 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 1BADC10
Russell-brand hose ends... they work wonders!
isn't that the same thing you had on your power steering hoses that kept popping off?
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADC10
Russell-brand hose ends... they work wonders!

Do these work with plain rubber hoses too or are they just for SS Braided lines?
From the SS lines I've done I thought they may compress and cut a plain rubber line, I could be full off poop on this.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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Ill take some pics of my setup and get the PNs for the adapters you will need. Be forwarned it will cost you 160 bucks but is worth it. You wont ahve to fight the damn lines anymore and is a much better setup. The plugs that go into the trans are 14x1.5mm you just need to get those adapters with a -6 end on them. Ill get you fixed up tonight.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:48 PM
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Just cut the steel lines and use Russell adaptors to mate them to the -6 AN line. RUS-639210 -- #6 MALE 37 DEG TO 3/8" TUBE fit for the 3/8 inch tranny lines. You need to either do the same trick on the radiator side or if in a warm state, cut out the radiator by using a tranny cooler with -6 AN fittings (such as a Derale fanned cooler -- DER-13700).
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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IMO the easiest way to do it is the way I did if you want to go ahead and bypass the radiator, the trans cooler that I have you can get a cold weather climate version that has an internal bypass so even though you bypass the radiator in cold climate your trans fluid can still get warm. Here is how I did it.

Here you can see the -6 90* hose ends, I used the pipe thread to -6 adapter fittings in the cooler to be able to connect the 90s to the cooler

Here you can see where they are run for now, once I get the engine back in I will do the final routing

Here you can see the 90* -6s that go into the trans(not connected yet)

Here is a picture of the stock fittings on the side of the trans that you will pull out

Here is a picture of the 14x1.5 to -6 fittings that will replace the stock fittings on the side of the trans(the adapters used on the cooler look the same but with a different pipe thread on them) just a little thread sealer and snug em in

This way the system does away with those POS wire clip things that are prone to getting bent and IIRC arent NHRA legal(not that it really matters just a good safety standard to go by).

If you are interested in this route I can provide you with the palce to get the 40,000GVW cooler like mine with or without the bypass for cold climate.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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Hmmmmm..........Pretty cool what you can learn from somebody else....???????JK.LOL!

James

Last edited by closet red neck; Jan 4, 2007 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:47 PM
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So....if I'm going to install an aftermarket cooler, and use my stock radiator cooler too, would you run the fluid thru the stock rad first, then thru the aftermarket, or vice vresa?
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:01 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Here is a picture of the 14x1.5 to -6 fittings that will replace the stock fittings on the side of the trans(the adapters used on the cooler look the same but with a different pipe thread on them) just a little thread sealer and snug em in
Who makes them? Thanks
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Those particular ones are earls I believe, Russels makes them too.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wkdivr
So....if I'm going to install an aftermarket cooler, and use my stock radiator cooler too, would you run the fluid thru the stock rad first, then thru the aftermarket, or vice vresa?
Do you have the towing package with the small cooler already or just the radiater?
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