Thank you for posting that correction. There are a lot of people out there who might have actually taken that wrong figure and used it. I googled for the U joint bolt torque and this was the first thread that came up.

 

and the crank bolt requires nut busting tight.

surely you would have known 59 ft lb seems a wee bit high just zip it in with an electric impact and stop after about 5 clicks. the only torque specs that i follow anymore are head bolts.

 

To the *** hole who said 59 ft on torque spec **** you. Why would you put the wrong information like an *** hole. Doesn't matter if you thought you were being cute and silly **** you hard in the ***. Broken bolt later with an hour of getting it out again **** you gard mother ****** I will ******* knee you in the face so hard if I ever know who you are.

 

#1 reason I find more than one source for information or disregard torque specs all together and do the german spec.

I've probably put 90% of cars back together without torquing a dam thing LOL. Head bolts, rod caps, main caps, crank bolts and specific stuff gets the ole bendy treatment but everything else is a blap blap with an impact lol.

 

LOL. And to the person who thought 59ft-lb was realistic, you're an idiot.

 

I actually broke the impact socket before I hit that torque spec.
I was lucky I didn't brake off the bolt too

 

Some people will believe anything on the internet. Someone needs to put a sarcasm warning on that post.

 

 

Dear Andrew,

After hearing your desperate plea for the simple process of reapplying a nut to the thingy with the spirals, I noticed some of the comments were rude, uninformed & may have put you in danger as well as your viewerships safety(Im sure thats not too many, however).

It would seem my vehicle is a good example as it has 400k and this was my first replacment of the drivers shaft.

My drivers shaft was a simple removal. I used a 90mm set of tin snips to cut and remove the zip ties that held the drivers shaft to the part that spins the rear tires at the same time.

i reapplied the new drivers shaft into the vehicles transmission hole.

I then banged the heck out of finger tips when reintroducing the other end because it was not connected.

NEXT, I then applied NEW weather resistant zipties in the mannor the old ones were. As far as torque, I took them as snug as possible, then cut off the excess product.

I wanted this installation to last so I utilized an extra zip for any extra torque produced as I went from aluminum to steel shafts.

I hope this helps you & your viewership when reapplying a new drivers shaft to your vehicle properly as well as any torque specs required for the strap jacks(thats what brand mine were).

Safe Driving-

Dale