I run a 4K 9.5" PI multidisk and my best 60's have been 1.63's. 9.5" is for F-Bodies but tend to flash higher and give better 60's than 10.5" 's, "Proven". You can lock a single disk at WOT but it's not meant to hold up to it, I used to doit on the 3k single disk I had on the 5.3 and it did fine. Go multidisk, the lockup feels like another gear and you just feel it pulling harder, well worth the extra $$. If you're planning on spraying you need to tell them so they don'tn make it so loose. 32-3400k sounds good and leaves room for an engine upgrade later.

 

The 9.5" is going to be what you want. The 10.5" isn't going to stall what you want it to with a 4.8L. If you order it to be a 3200 it'll stall at around 2700 and they'll just tell you that the 10.5" can't be stalled any higher. For a naturally asperated setup (especially with small cubes) you need to go to the 9.5" to get any stall speed over 3,000. As for the clutch, unless you tow alot with it the lock up will be just fine. You won't be locking it in the quarter anyway and you don't make enough power to hurt it when it does lock.

 

Why do you say that about Yank?
Ive had a Yank TT3000 and loved it.
I towed alot with it and it was great for DDing.
I locked it at WOT and never had a problem. Even broke 2 transmissions behind it and just flushed the fluid out and put it back in. It was fun towing cause it would flash 4500 in boost if i hammered on it.

Now PTC in Alabama is the ones you need to stay away from, i went through 5 or 6 of them. all kindof problems, it was aggravating.

 

The 9.5 will be looser than a 10.5. It will be looser up until the stall speed of the converter. The 10.5 will start pulling before it reaches the stall speed, where the 9.5 will start pulling later on. The 9.5 will usually net you better 60' times, where the 10.5 will have better manners.

Only you can decide what you would want, but if it were me, I'd go with a 9.5 triple disk. That will also give you room to grow. You know you'll never be 'done' with the truck.

 

I've broke 4 pro-yank extreme converters. And yank has done nothing. I know they are going to post up and say they have no record of this and that I should call them. But Ive called and called and called and keep getting put off. Just get alittle pissed when you spend $1100 on a converter and it can't hold up.

 

I went with a PI 10.5 single at first. My little 5.3 with 5lbs. would only flash to 2000-2200. They said it was as loose as they could make it. I switched to their 9.5 triple set up for 3000. It would flash to 28-3000 depending on if my truck was warmed up. I could stand on it and make it brake stall well over 4k. (Don't recommend it though.) Drivability was not nearly as good but it sure was faster.

 

I put 85k miles on my Yank TT3000 and never once had a problem.I locked it on nitrous making 550 at the wheels and it worked great everytime.
I had it cut open when Jason built my trans and everything was fine.I had the lockup clutch changed and it welded back together.

 

I have a yank 4200 on my 4l80e and i love it. Best 60' i have gotten has been 1.62 on motor with my 4l80e and just 3.73s.

 

I would assume that even the 10.5 tripple disk has its towing limitations

 

I called PI the other day and (Jack?) recommend a 3200rpm 9.5" but when I told him I was hitting it with a small shot he said the 3200 10.5" would probably do better for me.

I have a Yank billet SC2800 and it seems to work fine. In conjunction with the rest of my drive train it netted me a 1.66 60' but I am not against trying something new. PI has a great reputation for parts and service. 2 year warranty and free re-stalls are worth something to me. Next chunk of $ is going to try one.