GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

suspension guys come in please!

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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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From: baxley,ga
Default suspension guys come in please!

this is 2nd rearend I have broke on same side.this one I welded the tubes and it still broke.any idea what is happening or what can I do to fix this problem?thanks in advance
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 07:48 PM
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Poorly welded, at least that's how it looks to me.

I'm guessing you're making decent power and have sticky tires? I can see some sort of traction bar in the pic, but really don't know anything at all about your setup. Makes it difficult to suggest improvements.

Wheel-hop with power and traction will always find the weakest link. Those welds look cold.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Poorly welded, at least that's how it looks to me.

I'm guessing you're making decent power and have sticky tires? I can see some sort of traction bar in the pic, but really don't know anything at all about your setup. Makes it difficult to suggest improvements.

Wheel-hop with power and traction will always find the weakest link. Those welds look cold.
truck is a 87 c10 5.3/60e swap.has assassin bars.never had a problem with wheel hop.truck always hooks with slicks.its been 7.31@90 1/8 1.52 60ft on 150 shot.stepped it up to 175 shot and this happened.found another housing and had local machine shop weld tubes up before I swapped all my stuff over and changed it.when trucks leaves the line the whole left side comes up and feels like its trying to plant all the power to right rear tire?not sure if that's whats happening or not?thanks for your response
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 01:59 PM
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I think as he said the weld was an issue. Welding steel to cast iron is tricky. Some guys use a special "stick" and stick weld vs MIG. Some guys even heat them first.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:32 PM
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From: JunkYard
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When Mig welding cast Iron, you need to preheat and post heat otherwise it will crack at the cast Iron. You're basically Shocking the cold cast iron when you mig weld to it. That's why you see it pulled away.


Tig would be a better option.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Gotta preheat cast before you weld it.. Even still it's brittle
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:35 PM
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should be using a NIckle rod

find a modern housing that is cast steel not cast iron and it will take to it better
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:52 PM
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From: JunkYard
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I am not sure 100% if there cast iron or steel.

In the past I've had them Tig welded with what I believe was a 309 stainless filler rod using a large Gas lense. (A friend usually welds them for me)

We also Use an Oxy Acetylene torch and wire brush to clean and pre heat the joint prior to Tig welding.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
I am not sure 100% if there cast iron or steel.

In the past I've had them Tig welded with what I believe was a 309 stainless filler rod using a large Gas lense. (A friend usually welds them for me)

We also Use an Oxy Acetylene torch and wire brush to clean and pre heat the joint prior to Tig welding.
late model rears are easier to weld then the older truck rears
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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From: JunkYard
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Originally Posted by George C....
late model rears are easier to weld then the older truck rears
Would you be able to Put an approximate year on that???
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