I don't think you see a lot of this type stuff on the GM trucks just cause they simply don't need it. I had an elaborate plan to make some for mine and was able to get working so good without them, I just tossed the idea.

2006 rcsb, 4/6 drop along with some very simple leafspring type suspension tuning tricks (basically make sure nothing is in a bind, pinion angle is correct and clamp the leafs in front of the axle) and relocated shocks.........60' in the 1.50's at over 4500 lbs....no bars/caltracs or traction aids of that kind.

 

So now I know

Chad

 

See, that's what I don't get... a spring is an arch, you compress it and it HAS to get longer. That's why there is a shackle on the back of it. If the front of the spring is fixed and you attach a solid bar to the axle, how can it get longer??? Wouldn't it just get into a bind and not compress??? Making for a very rough ride??

 

^^^ Truth!

I made a set for my RCSB and did not like them. With the 4" Hotchkis springs they actually made traction at the track and on the street worse with along with a stiffer ride. I did not get a chance to try them at the track with the stock springs and flip kit, but they made the ride horrible. I am much happier with a VAS/Assassin type front bracket as it can be backed off for suspension articulation and a good ride on the street.

Here is a good thread on the topic from a few years back...
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...g-bars-486835/

 

Man that's old school. I guess this was before you went to a 4 link? I pretty much forgot about leaf spring clamps. Was you running overload springs and what brand of shocks? I wish I would of remembered clamps before I dropped $500 in traction bars for my Roush F150.... I feel confident they would work and not look gaudy like my ProComps.

Good questions... But on Lightnings, they straight work with no binding or harsh ride what so ever. That's why it just blows my mind how they are so wonderful for the Fords but not for us.

And thanks man. I'll check it out. Is your shocks relocated as well BK?

RyanR

 

that really all depends on how rigid the bars are and whether they are at the proper angle to allow the suspension to articulate without binding, my understanding on it from when i was researching bars for my silverado, which is lifted as the purpose of traction bars of any kind was to essentially keep the spring in front of the axle from flexing as much and keeping the pinion from trying to climb the ring gear which is where you start getting axle wrap and wheel hop from. The bars i have on my silverado are long bars and the truck actually rides better and holds traction better with them than it did before i installed them, and i know a lifted truck and a lowered truck are two different animals, but the theory behind it all should be similar, keep the wheel hop down and the pinion from rising, planting the rear end and getting the power to the ground....

 

I had better 60' without caltracs

 

Same here. Just rocking stock leafs and drag shocks?

Maybe I'm just a DA and can't figure them out but I never could make them work and now that I'm boosted I can see it simply compounding the problem. I also tried CE Slide-a-Links several years ago with no luck as well. Both unload the suspension right after launch.

A lot of the heavier YellowBullet guys have run into some of this problem as well and made the switch to Assassins with better luck from what I've read. I just don't see how Caltracs can work properly on our heavy trucks with the center point so far away from their mounting.

RyanR

 

what about the guy on facebook ripping the front end off the ground using cal-tracs? I wish i could give a RCSB another chance with cal-tracs or assassin bars.

 

I'm not saying caltracs don't work, not in the least. I just didn't have enough track time with them to make adjustments.

Clamping the leaf pack did nothing for me at the track.