rxsteven

iTrader: (1)

I got a code for it. It wont shift into 4th ill be going 60 and it at about 2400 rpm's. Has anyone ever done one know were it is and how to tell witch one is A? It must be in the pan. Do I need a trans pan gasket if I take it off? Any tips will help!! I dont like to mess around in the trans. Im also going to add a trans cooler so im going to try and wait to do them at the same time. Just waiting for it to get here.

Thanks for any help at all!!

Oh yeah its 4l60e

rxsteven

iTrader: (1)

Dose anybody know anything about this? I cant find anything in the Haynes manual.

rxsteven

iTrader: (1)

I cant believe no body can help me with this. I guess ill have to take it in.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

1. Pull the main connector, and reseat it firmly.
2. If #1 checks out, make sure the harness is secure & not loose, pinched, etc. (no reason it shouldn't be safe).
3. If the above checks out, drop the pan to make sure the solenoid connectors are firmly fastened. Also check the harness (within the trans) to ensure no wires are cut (can't imagine, but have seen strange things before).

Is it possible that you could have a bad solenoid? Sure. All you'll need then is a replacement. I'd probably replace both, but you can do with one if you're strapped for cash. FYI... the Shift Solenoid A refers to the 1-2 shift solenoid (energized in 1st & 4th). Shift Solenoid B refers to the 2-3 solenoid (energized on 1st & 2nd). What I am wondering is if you actually have first gear. Seems I remember losing the 1-2 shift solenoid rendered 2nd & 3rd gear only. That would give you a fault code for the 1-2 solenoid (A).

Also, make sure the solenoids' resistance measures up to ~40ohms. I remember having to check that when I first started learning about these 4L6xEs. Maybe one of the resident pros & sponsors can clarify this. BTW, Shift Solenoid A is the one on the driver's side. B is the one closest to the passenger side. They are held in place by clips about 1.5 inches apart on the rear side of the valve body. One connector will be orange, the other grey (I think).

Hope this helps.

*edit again*

BTW... be patient with some of us who don't always get to the boards every day. I (personally) don't get a chance to pop in. With job, wife & kids to spend QT with, it's hard to pop in to check everything. Good luck with resolving this issue.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Oh yea... though they may look identical, the connectors are different. I don't know what these things cost, but I've probably got a couple of used ones that have been tested to be good.

rxsteven

iTrader: (1)

It feels like I dont have a first gear and when I hit it at 30mph it dosnt down shift like it use to. I did a tune up and cleaned my maf, tb, and cai tube. I was wondering because I havent had it for long and have mostly drove short trips. How much fluid do you think ill need? I dont have much experience with a manual trans. What do they look like someone told me they are round and black. Also im going to add a trans cooler at the same time. Ill try pulling the main connector in the morning and check the outside out in the morning


Thank you sir, you have be a big help. I dont mean to seam inpatient.

oldred95

Shift solenoids are cheap, like 15-20 bucks a piece cheap. Do like 1BADC10 said and inspect the wiring. If you want to unplug the connector on the side of the trans you will have to heat it up with a heat gun to soften the epoxy otherwise you'll destroy it getting it apart. In 04 or 05 they changed the design of the connector so it actually comes apart even when they get some miles on them. If the wiring looks ok more then likely its a bad solenoid. They are put in the best of places where you about rip the solenoid off trying to get the pan off.


I've been driving with a 3-2 or 2-3 shift solenoid code for the better part of a year now. It doesn't always act up but when it does its during a kickdown and the rpms climb to redline and slowly drop back down. Technically its slipping because the solenoid is more then likely hanging up and its not getting addequate fluid volume to hold the band but at lower speeds it works just fine.

rxsteven

iTrader: (1)

Thanks bud I think im going to do it myself. Mine started a wile ago and it would come and go but now its not going away so im going tot fix it when my trans cooler gets here. So I can do it all at the same time.

rxsteven

iTrader: (1)

Well I going for it I checked all the wiring and it looks good so im going to pull the pan and change the solenoid. My trans cooler gets here tomorrow so im going to wait and do it after it gets here.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Fluid replacement for a "pan-drop" shouldn't take more than ~6 qts (with a OEM deep pan). I'd stop at 5, then check the fluid level. Add more as necessary. Of course, do this with the engine running.

Well... this isn't a "manual" trans. But, the connector is round and grey. You can find that main connector on the passenger side of the trans. Pinch the front and back of the connector, and pull up. It should come off with moderate force.

Pick up a new filter & pan gasket while you're at it. I figured the solenoid was cheap. Check with your local dealer or distributor. The shift solenoid (P/N: 24230298 --- not 100% sure that's it) should be close to $23.51 (as listed).