GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Replacing hard trans lines - anyone done this?

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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:08 PM
  #11  
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I dont trust the rubber lines on my B&M cooler so im gonna swap all of it to stainless braided. Use AN fittings at the tranny and new cooler.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:21 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by treyZ28
ok, i know this sounds ghetto- but i dont have any time to spare right now. I just finished a project that was crazy enough to double as my thesis. I have my finals until sat and then I need to drive to conneticut.

Anyway, to get me by for about 1000miles-
I'm thinking of just cutting the line and replacing about few inches with a rubber line (ATF specific line) or ... this was suggested to me


Getting about a foot of fuel line per side, and slice it EVENLY down the side so you can slip it over the line, and coating the inside of it liberally with high temp rtv. slip it over the line, and put a TON of those tiny band clamps on it, and make sure the slit in the rubber line faces the opposite way of the hole in the metal line.
You can get rubber line that is made specifically for the transmission. I spliced the hard lines with it when I did my 4l80e swap. Has'nt leaked a drop in 6 months. Yellowsierra did the same thing and his has held well over a year with no problems. No RTV needed. Just use the a couple of band clamps and it will be fine.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 12:28 AM
  #13  
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wait, you mean cutting out the middle right? as in the first plan of action. the second one worries me.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #14  
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i think a better temp fix would be to cut out the part w/ the hole in it and flare each side and slip some 5/16" (I think) fuel line over it and then use a clamp on each side... should hold up well and be pretty quick.
Good luck!
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 10:19 PM
  #15  
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The way to fix that line is with a double compression fitting. It is brass has a center section that has a male thread on each end a furl for each end and a nut for each end. You cut the line at the puncture with a tubing cutter, deburr the lines, slip a nut on each line a furl on each line slip the lines into the center section and tighten the nuts. End of problem. You can buy the at any parts store or hardware store for undr $5.00. all you need to know is your outside diameter of the line. ie. 3/8 or 5/16. If it is 10mm you need to buy a 3/8 fitting and ream it to 10mm.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rubrhammer
The way to fix that line is with a double compression fitting. It is brass has a center section that has a male thread on each end a furl for each end and a nut for each end. You cut the line at the puncture with a tubing cutter, deburr the lines, slip a nut on each line a furl on each line slip the lines into the center section and tighten the nuts. End of problem. You can buy the at any parts store or hardware store for undr $5.00. all you need to know is your outside diameter of the line. ie. 3/8 or 5/16. If it is 10mm you need to buy a 3/8 fitting and ream it to 10mm.
I went that route and it leaked all the time. I switcheed to the rubber tranny line and band clamps and it has'nt leaked since.
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