this is what I was interpreting as I read numerous of threads. Im still going to go with 4.30s just due to the fact I think about 22s from time to time. And he is CERTAIN he can retain stock feel. He put 1 into one of his Escalades 06 or 07, he said he is going to make my stall extra tight as well, if its TOO tight, bring it back and he will loosen it up some.. this was from his experience with a 9.5 that was just a hair too loose. So I maybe on to something, Ill past on the drive-ability with some videos as well. The company is called RevMAX which are local too me. They do alot of the diesel converters and are known for a excellent unit. They can make it stall bellow stock if needed as well. I cant post a link, google them. Forum rules for non sponsors.

here is what my stage 5 converter will look like

 

I did the 80e swap and still have my stock 3.73's and use 22's, and believe me I NEED a gear. I can't afford the swap right now, but I'm leaning towards 4.30's myself. I could only muster a 2.1 60' on a 27" drag tire at the track

Just my input, gears are a must w/the 80e. As stated, at least 4.10's

 

thank you for that response. I have also been searching around, and being that 4.56s are more popular, the prices are even better with more variety of manufactures to pick from. So 4.56s and a tru trac is next on my list, and trying to have those in, atleast the gears before my retune; that way everything will be calibrated and setup properly. But Ill run them on my 285/50/20s IMO that will be a stout drive-train. Im going to update my driveshaft as well with a built unit when I add the trutrac.

 

Well my only thing is, when the 22's are done I'm going back to a 20" setup. I've spent a good amount of time on the gear calculator and 4.30's or 4.56's are great with my 32" tires. Each wheel/tire is 77#'s though so they're killing me to

 

yeah, its going to be SICK on 20s. Im sure I will love it. Converter is being built and will be ready in a few days. 3700 stall with 4.56s on 20s sounds like lots of fun. Truck will be retuned and back together by next week Im hoping for. I got my crossmember from a fellow PT member. So all that remains for this swap is for me to get the CORRECT yoke to fit my 2wd application. As well as wire up the 80e and the extra speed sensor.

going to look for the right cam for my truck as my next major mod. something that takes advantage of my current vehicle mods, drivetrain etc. and something that can move a heavy truck good.

 

You're never going to notice a 100RPM difference in a converter. If you feel anything it will be from it being a different diameter etc... I'd go with about a 4000 converter and some 4.10's or more. But it really has everything to do with your setup... Not just swapping transmissions.

 

yea, i know that, wanted to stay with the same stall range. I LOVED it. Makes for a good daily driver. Converter is prob being made already, no need to change it now. Plus I have plan for a D1 procharger in the future... So I dont want nothing too extreme. I have had 4.56 gears in a 60e before as well. So I think this setup will work well for me.

Heck Im still researching the cam that will work with these specs and make it shine. I was told to gear, stall, then cam the truck.

That said, I drive a heavy Tahoe, I was thinking a cam like 224/226 duration... but like I said it may be too big, or even too small for my combo. 3700 stall, 4.56s, 6L

 

I would suggest doing the trans swap and then see what gear you want after driving it for a while.

I agree that a 3700 converter and 4.56's would be GREAT for the track but you might not like it in a dd everyday. Just depends on how much sacrifice you want to make I guess. What are the specs on the motor and what does your truck weigh?

I am running a 3600 converter w/3.73's and a 29.5" tire at the track and I cut consistent 1.8 60' Sure it would be quicker with a 4.30 or 4.56 but I dd it and the truck can hold it's own with many others for being 5300 lbs. If you live around here you can take it for a spin. I dd it on 20's

 

Whoever told you to put the truck together like that told you *** backward IMO...

Build the engine around what you want it to do and the vehicle it's going in and it's intended use.

Choose your trans and stall speed with the engine and vehicle use in mind and if you will be towing, drag racing, just DDing it, mostly city, mostly hwy etc...

Choose your gear based on the same basic things and where the engine makes it's best power and where you want to be RPM wise crossing the traps (if you're going to want it to run the number) if you do a lot of hwy driving, you could go taller, or vise versa...

A gear is more like a 'tuning' change to me. Changing a ring and pinion is easier than changing a camshaft. You can adjust it up or down to get the RPM where you want it, tire size is also just as much a tuning tool as a looks thing to me.

 

How much is that converter running you? If I'm reading that diagram right it looks like a single disk converter.