PI Vigs... 2400-2800.. if I'm just casually driving will this thing behave like a stock converter? or will I notice my truck goes no where at those real low RPM's below the stall speed.

What I'm trying to say is.. which ones are the converters that behave like stock or close to stock when driven regularly but will kick hard as hell when you floor it.. like when racing..

 

IM not sure how to answer your question, but i have a Yank Truck Thruster 3000.... I can stall it up to 2800 on the track.
Dockrocker broke the driveshaft in his truck so we hooked up a rope to his truck and i pulled him about 10 miles across town. RPMs never got over 1600. Thats not to bad pulling a truck that weighs almost 4000lbs.

So for a 2400ish you shouldnt be able to tell much of a difference unless you just drive it hard in town and stuff.

I drive mine like a grandma, justs takes alittle more time to get up to speed unless you just want to mash on the throttle.


And some people have a mis interpetation about stall converters.
I can take my foot off my brake and my truck will start goin. im idling at 700rpms. so just like that you cant tell its got a Stall converter in it.. but if you mash on the throttle, yea she will flash on up there and go.

 

I couldn't agree more. Especially going to a PI 2400 stall.

 

i have a 3200 stall and it takes a little more effort to get moving in town but i got used to it in a couple of days and now i really dont notice it. it has killed my mileage but on the other hand i drive like i stole it.

 

so by having the RPM's increased at idle will be this tight feeling that everyone keeps mentioning?

I dont know what they mean by "tight" vs "loose"

 

a "tight" converter is like your stock one, it doesn't require revs to start moving. itis a difficult feeling to describe until you ride in one.

 

I'm picturing a drag vehicle just sitting there revved up almost liek a manual and then just launching. I get the basic idea of what is going on.

Are pi vigs tight? Or it'll act like a stock one is what I'm asking.. it'll be in a l4 flt tranny... in case that matters

regardless I'm getting a 24-2600... and ecsb's are more on the heavy side so it'll probably be at like 2600ish? Stock stall is what 16-18?

 

Well, you got to hold it back... its not just goin to sit there and free rev until you get to that RPM... It takes a good bit to get mine to stall to 2800.. and thats all my brakes and tires will hold right now. But with some good sticky tires im sure i could get 3000 out of it.

and your shifts wont feel as harsh with a built trasmission with a higher stall.

 

ok good you answered my question.. that's what I was worryied about. It'll almost be like I was in nuetral when sitting at a redlight. ok thanks for clarifying that..

one last dumb question..

your at a redlight and you slowly just put your foot down on the gas to accelerate up to speed limit. What would happen? It'll behavy stock and just go? or it'll have to rev up a good bit first.


Now what would happen if I was sitting there and I nailed the gas pedal? My tires would spin?

 

Under normal driving conditions even a really tight converter will require more gas to get moving. and depending on your gearing when you nail it, you allow the engine to obtain a better powerband and thus more torque to the wheels. then the converters "str" will kick in and the engine will stop reving or "stall" and then the tranny will catch up causing a multiplication in the torque to the wheels. Here is a good description lifted from PI's Website

STALL SPEED
Torque converter stall is a commonly used term and is commonly misunderstood. Stall is the speed at which the converter will hold the engine speed and not allow further gain (i.e., the engine "stalls"). The key word here is engine. The speed at which stall occurs with a given converter is a function of engine peak torque. It is clear that the stall speed on a given converter will not be the same coupled to a tame small block engine when compared to a big block with all of the muscle features added. When comparing stall speeds it is important to account for the engine that drives it. True converter stall can best be determined when a Transbrake is used. Testing for stall value by locking the wheel brakes generally does not produce a true stall value because the engine power can often cause wheel turn by overpowering the brakes. Stall speed determined by this method should be identified as such when discussing stall speed determination. Flash stall is determined by launching at full throttle and observing the peak speed attained at launch. Selection of the right stall speed for your vehicle should be matched to the engine peak torque, engine torque curve shape and vehicle weight. In general, the stall speed selected for your converter would be 500 to 700 rpm below the peak torque. This speed allows the margin for application of the torque reserve on takeoff. When selecting stall speed without having prior experience to go by, it is better to conservatively estimate the engine torque than it is to over estimate it. If you over estimate the torque output you will have a converter with a stall speed too low, making your car slow off the line and have slow ET. A properly selected stall speed will give you better launch and better ET. You can see why it is important to consult with professionals prior to making a stall speed selection. Within the converter, stall speed is balanced off against inefficiency after launch. Getting desired stall at the expense of performance after launch is just as costly as improper stall speed to begin. The optimum converter has careful selection and design of changes to the impeller, turbine and stator.