question about 4l80e and stand alone controller
#1
Hello guys,
i do not have a truck but i am thinking that you can help me to answer my questions.
I am rebuilding a 1997 low milage 4l80e for my 1957 bel air.
My chevy have a mild 383 sbc stroker, 3.7 to 1 rear, 29 inch tires on the rear and currently a th350.
I run a edelbrock pro flo 4 fuel injection since last year.
The intendend use for this car is cruising and drive around about 5000-6000 miles per year.
What have i done for my 4l80e?
- all borg warner high energy frictions with all new steels
- new front band, new borg warner reverse band
- new roller clutches and sprags
- all seals, pistons, solenoids, wiring harness new
- internal dual fed for the direct clutch
- sonnax boost valve 4l80e-lb1
- sonnax line to lube pressure regulator valve 34200-14k
- sonnax tcc regulator valve 34994-01k
- sonnax stator support bushing 34016w
- stiffer springs for the direct cluch
- sturdier intermediate snap ring
- new transgo seperator plate with drillings like the oem plate
- suggested converter would be a vigilante from 2400 to 2800 stall
I like (must) use a stand alone transmission controller and i am looking for the compushift sport.
I know that the stand alone controller let me tune the shift firmness.
My questions are now, must i drill the separator plate for firmer shifts additionaly?
Must i drill bigger holes because i have more line pressure now?
Or do i drill bigger holes in no case because i have an stand alone controller?
thank you very much
Markus
i do not have a truck but i am thinking that you can help me to answer my questions.
I am rebuilding a 1997 low milage 4l80e for my 1957 bel air.
My chevy have a mild 383 sbc stroker, 3.7 to 1 rear, 29 inch tires on the rear and currently a th350.
I run a edelbrock pro flo 4 fuel injection since last year.
The intendend use for this car is cruising and drive around about 5000-6000 miles per year.
What have i done for my 4l80e?
- all borg warner high energy frictions with all new steels
- new front band, new borg warner reverse band
- new roller clutches and sprags
- all seals, pistons, solenoids, wiring harness new
- internal dual fed for the direct clutch
- sonnax boost valve 4l80e-lb1
- sonnax line to lube pressure regulator valve 34200-14k
- sonnax tcc regulator valve 34994-01k
- sonnax stator support bushing 34016w
- stiffer springs for the direct cluch
- sturdier intermediate snap ring
- new transgo seperator plate with drillings like the oem plate
- suggested converter would be a vigilante from 2400 to 2800 stall
I like (must) use a stand alone transmission controller and i am looking for the compushift sport.
I know that the stand alone controller let me tune the shift firmness.
My questions are now, must i drill the separator plate for firmer shifts additionaly?
Must i drill bigger holes because i have more line pressure now?
Or do i drill bigger holes in no case because i have an stand alone controller?
thank you very much
Markus
#2
The separator plate holes that you drill are control orifice holes.
They will only physically flow a certain amount of fluid...that amount can vary with the pressure and temperature of the fluid.
So, with more pressure from the LB1, shifts will get firmer.
The controller controls shift firmness by manipulating the pressure via the pressure control solenoid.
A good starting point would be:
1-2=.078
2-3=.110
3-4=.110
Even with fixed line pressure and blocked accumulators, the 4l80e doesn't typically become overly harsh on the shift feel if you keep the hole sizes correct
They will only physically flow a certain amount of fluid...that amount can vary with the pressure and temperature of the fluid.
So, with more pressure from the LB1, shifts will get firmer.
The controller controls shift firmness by manipulating the pressure via the pressure control solenoid.
A good starting point would be:
1-2=.078
2-3=.110
3-4=.110
Even with fixed line pressure and blocked accumulators, the 4l80e doesn't typically become overly harsh on the shift feel if you keep the hole sizes correct
#3
Hello guys,
i do not have a truck but i am thinking that you can help me to answer my questions.
I am rebuilding a 1997 low milage 4l80e for my 1957 bel air.
My chevy have a mild 383 sbc stroker, 3.7 to 1 rear, 29 inch tires on the rear and currently a th350.
I run a edelbrock pro flo 4 fuel injection since last year.
The intendend use for this car is cruising and drive around about 5000-6000 miles per year.
What have i done for my 4l80e?
- all borg warner high energy frictions with all new steels
- new front band, new borg warner reverse band
- new roller clutches and sprags
- all seals, pistons, solenoids, wiring harness new
- internal dual fed for the direct clutch
- sonnax boost valve 4l80e-lb1
- sonnax line to lube pressure regulator valve 34200-14k
- sonnax tcc regulator valve 34994-01k
- sonnax stator support bushing 34016w
- stiffer springs for the direct cluch
- sturdier intermediate snap ring
- new transgo seperator plate with drillings like the oem plate
- suggested converter would be a vigilante from 2400 to 2800 stall
I like (must) use a stand alone transmission controller and i am looking for the compushift sport.
I know that the stand alone controller let me tune the shift firmness.
My questions are now, must i drill the separator plate for firmer shifts additionaly?
Must i drill bigger holes because i have more line pressure now?
Or do i drill bigger holes in no case because i have an stand alone controller?
thank you very much
Markus
i do not have a truck but i am thinking that you can help me to answer my questions.
I am rebuilding a 1997 low milage 4l80e for my 1957 bel air.
My chevy have a mild 383 sbc stroker, 3.7 to 1 rear, 29 inch tires on the rear and currently a th350.
I run a edelbrock pro flo 4 fuel injection since last year.
The intendend use for this car is cruising and drive around about 5000-6000 miles per year.
What have i done for my 4l80e?
- all borg warner high energy frictions with all new steels
- new front band, new borg warner reverse band
- new roller clutches and sprags
- all seals, pistons, solenoids, wiring harness new
- internal dual fed for the direct clutch
- sonnax boost valve 4l80e-lb1
- sonnax line to lube pressure regulator valve 34200-14k
- sonnax tcc regulator valve 34994-01k
- sonnax stator support bushing 34016w
- stiffer springs for the direct cluch
- sturdier intermediate snap ring
- new transgo seperator plate with drillings like the oem plate
- suggested converter would be a vigilante from 2400 to 2800 stall
I like (must) use a stand alone transmission controller and i am looking for the compushift sport.
I know that the stand alone controller let me tune the shift firmness.
My questions are now, must i drill the separator plate for firmer shifts additionaly?
Must i drill bigger holes because i have more line pressure now?
Or do i drill bigger holes in no case because i have an stand alone controller?
thank you very much
Markus
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MustangPunk
GM Drivetrain & Suspension
10
Jul 10, 2014 07:57 PM






