Power glide questions
#1
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From: Crystal Springs, MS
Got my hands on a powerglide and gonna put it in my S10 setup for a dirt drag truck. I think this one i have is a 1.76 low and ive never had any dealings with A glide. Its goin with a turboed 4.8. I have a 4000 stall for it also.
28" tires, have no idea what gears to go with. 4.88 is as low as i can find.
28" tires, have no idea what gears to go with. 4.88 is as low as i can find.
#2
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From: Where our street cars are faster than your racecars..Mississippi
Gears have ALOT to do with converter and how many feet you will be running and what rpm you want it to be crossing the line at.. A PG is still 1 to 1 in high gear so it should be pretty easy to figure that out..but you have to find out how much "slip" is your converter in high @xxxrpm @xxxft you can guess close but most likely have to play with it to give the turbo the perfect load vs wheel speed
#3
The 1.76 factory gear / carrier assemblies are stronger than the 1.82 gear / carrier. So, thats a good start. Is your transmission stock? Just curious what you know about it....
If you need any anything regarding that transmission or the build just give me a shout. I build Glides very, very often.
Good Luck with it! Sounds like a fun project to me!
g
If you need any anything regarding that transmission or the build just give me a shout. I build Glides very, very often.
Good Luck with it! Sounds like a fun project to me!
g
#4
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From: Crystal Springs, MS
Its bone stock. It was still runnin from the chevelle behind the 307.
The dirt drags are 300'. Plan on freshening it up and get it ready to go in.
Thanks for the help gilbert. Ill keep you in mind and get my list of questions ready haha.
The dirt drags are 300'. Plan on freshening it up and get it ready to go in.
Thanks for the help gilbert. Ill keep you in mind and get my list of questions ready haha.
#6
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From: Crystal Springs, MS
This thing is still in working order. What you suggest i should do? Just put new clutchs and such?
Gonna put the th350 input shaft in it so i can run a stall my brother has laying around from his mud truck.
Any valvebody mods like a shift kit?
Ive rebuilt a few 4L60Es and put shift kits in a couple 80Es. So i kinda halfway got a clue how to get around a auto trans and ive heard that a Glide doesnt get any easier in terms of an auto.
Gonna put the th350 input shaft in it so i can run a stall my brother has laying around from his mud truck.
Any valvebody mods like a shift kit?
Ive rebuilt a few 4L60Es and put shift kits in a couple 80Es. So i kinda halfway got a clue how to get around a auto trans and ive heard that a Glide doesnt get any easier in terms of an auto.
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#8
Yes there are a few things to consider, like built408 mentioned you'll want to increase the clutch count in the drum. The clutches inside the drum are high gear, or direct. In stock trim you'll find 4 or 5 clutches depending on the application. If you stick with a stock drum you can get as many as 8 in it. But, the piston will need to be machined for the extra clutches. I do that regularly.
A manual valve body will lock the line pressure at maximum. I would consider a valve body with a brake so that you can spool it up before launching. You don't need anything over the top exotic for this application.
You'll want a pump that has oversized gears so that you will have good converter charge pressure. There are some mods I do to the pump circuitry to improve the converter feed as well.
A dual ring servo is a good idea, but not a priority in this one. But, considering they are relatively inexpensive you might want to go ahead and install one. I've taken single ring stock servos up to ~950 h/p @ 275 psi and they held the band just fine.
The stock high gear clutch hub is aluminum, it will break. Not to mention it will not accomodate the extra clutches, so that is a priority.
A turbo splined input shaft is a must as well. I would recommend a 300m shaft for your application. I don't think it needs to be ringless as you'll most likely never dead hook it on the hit... and that'll save you big money.
Give me a call. I can and will give you good advice and hook you up on the parts!
g
A manual valve body will lock the line pressure at maximum. I would consider a valve body with a brake so that you can spool it up before launching. You don't need anything over the top exotic for this application.
You'll want a pump that has oversized gears so that you will have good converter charge pressure. There are some mods I do to the pump circuitry to improve the converter feed as well.
A dual ring servo is a good idea, but not a priority in this one. But, considering they are relatively inexpensive you might want to go ahead and install one. I've taken single ring stock servos up to ~950 h/p @ 275 psi and they held the band just fine.
The stock high gear clutch hub is aluminum, it will break. Not to mention it will not accomodate the extra clutches, so that is a priority.
A turbo splined input shaft is a must as well. I would recommend a 300m shaft for your application. I don't think it needs to be ringless as you'll most likely never dead hook it on the hit... and that'll save you big money.
Give me a call. I can and will give you good advice and hook you up on the parts!
g
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