pinion seal?
12-30-2007, 03:56 PM
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pinion seal?
i got a pinion seal leak. is there any special tools i need to tackle this? i dont think i need to re-shim anything because im not taking that gear out, just the yoke and replacing that seal. i got a parts break down of it and it looks simple, but ive never done gear stuff.
12-30-2007, 04:16 PM
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You should be able to just pull the drive shaft off, remove the yoke and swap the seal. when you put it back together be sure you dont over tighten the nut on the pinion, that will change the amount of preload that is on the pinion bearings
12-30-2007, 04:24 PM
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You can do it this way, but the right way would be to replace the crush sleeve and re-set the pinion preload. Of course the carrier must be removed to do this so it makes it a super pain in the ***. but it is up to you, if you don't replace the crush sleeve, be very very very carful not to over tighten the nut.......
12-30-2007, 04:31 PM
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yeah i dont have the tools nor the experience to do the whole wizbanger. ill go the other route, whats the torque on that nut? does the yoke come right off or do i need a puller?
12-30-2007, 04:48 PM
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[QUOTE=MGMC;3811909]yeah i dont have the tools nor the experience to do the whole wizbanger. ill go the other route, whats the torque on that nut? does the yoke come right off or do i need a puller?[/QUOTE
The amount of torque is different per application, the yoke just needs to sit back down on the backside of the bearing w/o adding any preload to it. If you over tighten it it will compress the crush sleeve more and put more pressure on the bearings, that could wear them out quicker. The yoke can come right off, but usually a good brass hammer helps it along.
The amount of torque is different per application, the yoke just needs to sit back down on the backside of the bearing w/o adding any preload to it. If you over tighten it it will compress the crush sleeve more and put more pressure on the bearings, that could wear them out quicker. The yoke can come right off, but usually a good brass hammer helps it along.
12-30-2007, 05:05 PM
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yeah i dont have the tools nor the experience to do the whole wizbanger. ill go the other route, whats the torque on that nut? does the yoke come right off or do i need a puller?[/QUOTE
The amount of torque is different per application, the yoke just needs to sit back down on the backside of the bearing w/o adding any preload to it. If you over tighten it it will compress the crush sleeve more and put more pressure on the bearings, that could wear them out quicker. The yoke can come right off, but usually a good brass hammer helps it along.
The amount of torque is different per application, the yoke just needs to sit back down on the backside of the bearing w/o adding any preload to it. If you over tighten it it will compress the crush sleeve more and put more pressure on the bearings, that could wear them out quicker. The yoke can come right off, but usually a good brass hammer helps it along.
12-30-2007, 05:16 PM
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Wilde is right, if you want to be sure its right, than take the time and do it right the first time. You might consider just keeping an eye on the fluid level and save for some gears and a locker(if you havent done that stuff already) since you will basicly rebuild the rear anyway just for a seal
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12-30-2007, 08:57 PM
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some months back i had 3.73 + eaton posi installed by a local guy here, he screwed up and over torqued a bearing. so in the middle of a road trip, i started hearing the noise. when i got to missouri i took it to a dealership and they redid it for me. i dont have a reciept or anything but is there anyway to see if the work they did is still under warranty online? ill give a local dealership here a call tomorrow for sure.
12-30-2007, 09:03 PM
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just mark the flange nut and the flange with a marker, take it apart swap the seal and then line it back up as good as possible and you shouldn't overtorque the nut.
Thats how we do them at work.
Thats how we do them at work.
