Pinion angle...and i have used the search button!
Apr 28, 2009 | 11:11 AM
#51
Your working angle between the trans and driveline is 0.5* and the working angle between the driveline and pinion is 8*. If you shim your trans to around 3* it will help get the working angle close to around 2-3*, but will increasethe working angle between the driveline and pinion. You might have to go back to a smaller shim for the rearend. I'd try shimming the trans first. I had to deal with this with my truck, and it took a few tries. 
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
I think the vibration was there with the 3.23's but was only present at 110+ for me. Then when i went the 4.11's the load on everything changed so it brought it up to around 75. Im just happy changing the angle is helping, it would have sucked if i had a bad balanced ring and pinion.
Dustin
Apr 28, 2009 | 11:17 AM
#52
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Your truck does not have the same frame as my NBS 08"
So dont worry about the pics . I was thinking you knew of someone who had a NBSEC 1500 truck with the 2 shaft set up.
As far as I know I don't think they come with that set up.
So dont worry about the pics . I was thinking you knew of someone who had a NBSEC 1500 truck with the 2 shaft set up.
As far as I know I don't think they come with that set up.
Last edited by BOLLAS; Apr 28, 2009 at 12:17 PM.
Apr 28, 2009 | 11:20 AM
#53
I'm saying use a 2 piece shaft from an NBS. I'd be willing to bet the length would be pretty close to what you'd need, nothing a driveshaft shop shouldn't be able to handle. You could weld in the center support thing to your frame. Either that or just spend the money and have a proper driveshaft made.
Apr 28, 2009 | 12:21 PM
#54
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
You are correct the shaft is the perfect size, but there is just the room for you to set it up properly. I have looked in to this solution already but I will have to look it to it further. The biggest problem is the fuel tank, it's in the way of the frame for the crossmember to work properly.
Last edited by BOLLAS; Apr 28, 2009 at 07:08 PM.
Apr 28, 2009 | 05:40 PM
#55
For your application you need 1-2* negative. I would shoot for 2*. Meaning your pinion need to point down in relation to the driveshaft, not up. I skimmed this thread so sorry if I missed anything or you fixed it.
Last edited by Dezert1500; Apr 28, 2009 at 05:47 PM.
Apr 28, 2009 | 07:10 PM
#56
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
I'm saying use a 2 piece shaft from an NBS. I'd be willing to bet the length would be pretty close to what you'd need, nothing a driveshaft shop shouldn't be able to handle. You could weld in the center support thing to your frame. Either that or just spend the money and have a proper driveshaft made.
Thanks.
Apr 28, 2009 | 07:58 PM
#57
This is driving me nuts.After i added the 2* shims(fat side to the back) im wondering if it needs to be more on mine.I do have a 5/9 drop but i just realized that Dustin you have shackles only in the rear?I am woindering if with a flip kit the shim needs to be fat side facing forward.Or some one can tell me what to measure again.I measured rear pinion yolk,driveshaft,wich side of the yolk coming out of the tranny.All help is appreciated.
Dustin,im glad it is working out better for you.
Dustin,im glad it is working out better for you.
Apr 28, 2009 | 08:27 PM
#59
fat side forward with leafs over the axle and fat side to the rear with leafs under the axle