Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!
#11
Originally Posted by Quik
ok good question now is that the rod youre using with a 03 and up console or is that the rod youre using for no full console and just the jump seat style console
#12
ok now why would you got higher with the rod before the bend. i would think the higher the rod before the bend and the shorter the second lenght would make for a shorter throw. or possibly make it a straight then straight horrizontal then straight vertical for a more straight shifted rod when going between gears
#13
I will buy one of those pedal mount plates off of you if you make another one! My pedals move too much, since I used the drill through the firewall option.
Also I used my stock drive shaft and if works fine. What am I missing with it not going to work right?
2002 trans mounts swap right over!
I did not see anything about the hydrolic system?!
I used an f-body SS line from the master and a corvette SS line and a corvette slave! This gives you the extra line need to reach the trany from the fire wall.
Also I used my stock drive shaft and if works fine. What am I missing with it not going to work right?
2002 trans mounts swap right over!
I did not see anything about the hydrolic system?!
I used an f-body SS line from the master and a corvette SS line and a corvette slave! This gives you the extra line need to reach the trany from the fire wall.
Last edited by 1TRUESS; Dec 24, 2006 at 02:08 PM.
#14
Originally Posted by Quik
ok now why would you got higher with the rod before the bend. i would think the higher the rod before the bend and the shorter the second lenght would make for a shorter throw. or possibly make it a straight then straight horrizontal then straight vertical for a more straight shifted rod when going between gears
It was 9 months ago when I made it.
Every bend is there for a reason, either clearance or positioning the **** where I wanted it. Mainly for clearence and getting it centered up in the hole. I just heated and bent it and figured it out as I went. I flattened out the bottom and drilled the holes so I could bolt it on and move the shifter in it's full range and bent it from there.Overall height is the only thing that is going to effect length of throw. You could have 30' of rod bent to the bumper and back but if the height was the same then the throw (travel distance at the ****) would be the same
#15
***NOTE*** My truck starts in gear!
I also had a remote starter/alarm on my truck before the swap and my remote starter still works, but I need to remember to take it out of gear! I don't used the starter any ways, because the truck does not see snow!
We need to start a 6speed truck club/team!
I also had a remote starter/alarm on my truck before the swap and my remote starter still works, but I need to remember to take it out of gear! I don't used the starter any ways, because the truck does not see snow!
We need to start a 6speed truck club/team!
Last edited by 1TRUESS; Dec 24, 2006 at 02:08 PM.
#17
Originally Posted by Quik
any pics of the rod actually coming up thru the 03+ console?
also what shifter is the majority using
also what shifter is the majority using
#19
As far as the jump seat console goes, it won't work. I tried and it looked like poop.
For the hydraulic lines, I used an f-body line and had it lengthened at a hydraulic hose shop. It cost big $$$ but I got some fuel line done at the same time, so they cut a little break. You can use the factory truck line, that's why I said if you buy the master from a junk yard, get the line. GM doesn't sell the line without the master, and most junk yard cut or toss the line anyway.
I'm using the factory hurst shifter.
Starting in gear can easily be remedied. I have minde setup that way, because I hate having to push in a clutch everytime to start a vehicle, even if it's neutral or not. Just personal preference I guess. Anyway, if you get a factory truck clutch pedal switch you can use that to splice into your neutral safety switch, so the truck won't start unless the pedal is depressed. The switch attaches to the rod on the pedal that goes into the master cylinder. I bought one for a 2 step, but never put it on, so I can't say if it's easy to do or not.
For the hydraulic lines, I used an f-body line and had it lengthened at a hydraulic hose shop. It cost big $$$ but I got some fuel line done at the same time, so they cut a little break. You can use the factory truck line, that's why I said if you buy the master from a junk yard, get the line. GM doesn't sell the line without the master, and most junk yard cut or toss the line anyway.
I'm using the factory hurst shifter.
Starting in gear can easily be remedied. I have minde setup that way, because I hate having to push in a clutch everytime to start a vehicle, even if it's neutral or not. Just personal preference I guess. Anyway, if you get a factory truck clutch pedal switch you can use that to splice into your neutral safety switch, so the truck won't start unless the pedal is depressed. The switch attaches to the rod on the pedal that goes into the master cylinder. I bought one for a 2 step, but never put it on, so I can't say if it's easy to do or not.


