Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Theres isnt really going to be a shaft in the sotp difference!!! Either way steel or aluminum.... Its going to hurt like hell!!!! Lmao!!!

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Sorry i couldnt resist, but seriously aluminum will be lighter, steel stronger... Really depends on length, cant really see a driveshaft adding to drivetrain loss, unless its so damn heavy it takes away fron the tq to turn it.... Or for that matter its flexing under load, which will cause it to break eventually anyway!!!

rocknZ71

Lol! I really should've put more thought into wording my question. Can I blame it on the concussion? If anyone tries to put a shaft anywhere near the seat of my pants I'll empty my .45 into them!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

Mine is 4" .125 wall, sold through ebay coming out of california. $430 est. 69 and some change center to center for my Yukon XL 2wd. Got it in a week.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Link?

rednekferlife101

iTrader: (1)

Nice! I got the one local shop here Hartmans driveshaft and axle to make me one. Got a 5" aluminum .125" wall for the rear and a steel 2.75" front made.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

My shaft is probably a little on the short side with as much lift as i have on the truck, sadly i think i culd get away with stock length shaft with a 4l80 swap!!!

3wide

I hope they warranty that driveshaft for your desired RPM and Torque output. Good quality ones from the Driveshaft shop that we use start a $1,000.00 for aluminum with those specs, carbon fiber more which is understood. There are different grades of Aluminum and Steel so keep that in mind for what you purchase.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

Not to come off like a ********, but there isn't much to a driveshaft. Material, yoke, joints, and balancing. This is the equivalent to some other shops shafts that are more expensive, you're correct. My Camaro's PST 3.5" shaft was shorter, same quality, slightly better front yoke and it was $475ish and I think they've gone up. This one has the CAM yoke on the front (documented failures), which has always done well behind autos but has failed in manual cars that launched really hard. This will never apply to my yukon so no issue there. At the end of the day its as good as you're gonna get for the price, period. I did my homework. And, I've already driven with it and its perfectly smooth at hwy speeds.

This is who I bought through.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272119530384?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Here is the description.

THIS IS A BRAND NEW ALUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT

This Drive Shaft is made out of 4" .125 wall Alcoa Aluminum tubing (stronger Than Stock Shafts)

Comes with New Transmission Slip yoke and both New Spicer U-joints

Comes Fully balanced with U-Joints and slip yoke installed and ready for you to install in your truck

Fits : 2001-2006 Suburban and Yukon XL Models - 2wd only


REPLACES THESE PART NUMBERS
923836-1643M
15105506


Length of Shaft is 69-3/8" Center of U-joint to center of U-joint

Slip Yoke Specs
Spline Dia: 1.176
No Of Teeth: 26/27
Centerline To End: 6.750
Hub Dia: 1.500
Centerline To Washer: 1.000
Cbore Dia: 1.218
Cbore Depth: 0.410
Series: 1330
Series: 1330 - (1.062" CAP - 3.625" OUTSIDE LOCKUP)
Rear end has inside clip (3-R style)


Any question you can call
(661) 633-2303

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

Here's a little bit of info on the CAM798 yoke. That is the 1350 variety specifically.

Can someone post a pic of the PST FORGED slip yoke - LS1TECH