GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Need suggestions for new rear end

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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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Default Need suggestions for new rear end

I need a rear end that can handle around 900rwhp in my Tahoe.I'm investigating what alternatives are out there,I'll also need a really strong posi because a spool is not an option.If anyone has any suggestions,I would greatly appreciate your input.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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have you thought a a Gm SF 14-bolt
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:35 PM
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A 10.5 14 bolt would do it but those things are heavy as hell. I'd probably do a full aftermarket 9" with a heavy nodular center section, 33 or 35 spline axles, aftermarket housing (thicker) with a brace kit. The only issue is with 35 spline the only differential you can get other than a spool is a Detroit Locker.

Also, Dana 70

Last edited by TurboGibbs; Apr 14, 2007 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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I'd go 14-bolt. Only $2100 from GMpartsdirect.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboGibbs
A 10.5 14 bolt would do it but those things are heavy as hell. I'd probably do a full aftermarket 9" with a heavy nodular center section, 33 or 35 spline axles, aftermarket housing (thicker) with a brace kit. The only issue is with 35 spline the only differential you can get other than a spool is a Detroit Locker.

Also, Dana 70
Who would you go to for the aftermarket 9"rear end?Ratcheting rear end would be ok,Detroit Lockers are good enough for Nascar,and they can probably provide rear brakes made to accept 15" rear wheels for the track.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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I Know Moser Engineering just came out with there M9 housing and its a beast. You might try them
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Moser, Strange, and Currie all can build you whatever you want to do whatever you want pretty much.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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I have a 10.5" 14-bolt converted to non-float, but this is not what I would choose again if I were to have to do this all over. The center has withstood the worst I can throw at it with 4.56:1 gears and an Eaton posi. A big part in its strength is in having bearing on both sides of the pinion gear, like a Ford 9". The weakness on my setup is the ball bearings at the ends, in my opinion. After one evening of some donuts and drifting I got some strange noises from one of the bearings and discovered upon disassembly that the retainer rings for the bearings were bent and some of them were not positioned correctly - basically it destroyed the bearings. Now these bearing are not different than the those used on 9" Fords or even in NASCAR, they are pressed onto the axle shaft and then retained by a collar BUT they do not hold up well to a three ton vehicle being flung around a tarmack like it was a go-cart.
If I have to start over with the rear end again I will be looking into these companies that make 6-lug hub for a true full-float 10.5" 14-bolt.
Geartechhd makes some:
www.geartechhd.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=2&pos=0
Also, Industrial Offroad:
www.industrialoffroad.com/gallery/album03?page=1

No sponsor on this site sells anything even remotely like any of this stuff, so there you have the direct addresses.

Bullet-proof rear ends for our trucks have to be custom built, unfortunately. Nobody has figured out there there is a demand for an off-the-shelf bolt-in replacement that can handle the kind of torque, weight, and 6x5.5" wheels that we need. The off-road guys are the only ones that come close, but like has already been said - a 10.5" 14-bolt is one heavy ****.

Edit:
I know a guy with a RamJet 502 with a 250-shot that has a 9.5" 14-bolt with 4.10:1 gearing. It's making less power than your target and the cover bolts on the differential walk themselves out. This is a telltale sign the housing is flexing. I've never had that problem with the 10.5" and 4.56:1 gears.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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I vote for 14bolt 10.5", tried and true ...............of course the 9" is as well, probably more so and alot lighter
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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Just get the 14bolt FF. I would look into converting the front to 8-lug and keep the stock 8 lug rear. Would be cheaper and stonger I would think.
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