GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Need new drive-shaft...they said not possible.

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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 07:07 PM
  #21  
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Dennysdriveshaft.com This guy's been at it for a long time and has built some for big hp
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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Looks to me like you could notch the crossmember in question for clearance, and in doing so have a loop built into the crassmember. And, I would look into having somekind of loop on that forward crossmember. With all the stuff you got going on under there, you DO NOT want your shaft flying around! Don't waste your money on a carbon fibre shaft, they're mostly for Pro Stock/ProMod type vehicles.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wkdivr
Looks to me like you could notch the crossmember in question for clearance, and in doing so have a loop built into the crassmember. And, I would look into having somekind of loop on that forward crossmember. With all the stuff you got going on under there, you DO NOT want your shaft flying around! Don't waste your money on a carbon fibre shaft, they're mostly for Pro Stock/ProMod type vehicles.
Actually that's a really good idea! Hadn't thought of that actually. So I'll look into notching the after crossmember, and putting some sturdy loops on each crossmember. So here's my next question...Can I keep my Aluminum drive shaft and just speed balance/calibrate it or get something stronger? What one piece unit is out there that can support 800/800 to the wheels? Also why would a carbon drive shaft not me recommended? Other than the cost perspective.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 12:06 AM
  #24  
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Just make sure your loops are within 6" of the u-joints otherwise tech won't like them.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 05:16 AM
  #25  
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I think your current shaft would be fine, especially if you're going to get a high speed balance check. A c/f shaft would probably cost, maybe $2500, and if it happens to rub on something, it will start to unravel, it's just not needed on any street machine. And, they DO start to de-laminate after awhile. It would take some custom work, but you could modify the crossmember like I said, and have a loop installed up on the forward crossmember, and be set. It might not be exactly, perfectly "NHRA Legal", but it sure best not having anything at all. Especially after going this far with your truck.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:28 PM
  #26  
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Wow, i just realized mine is hitting on a piece of tube near the rear end when ever it bottoms out. guess i just need bump stops. good luck
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty 30
Wow, i just realized mine is hitting on a piece of tube near the rear end when ever it bottoms out. guess i just need bump stops. good luck

i just realized that i dont have a finished pic of mine but this is what i had to do to mine to keep it from rubbing



after i got done welding that up i cut about a 4" wide 1.25" deep angled notch out of that over the shaft and selded that in place also

mine is dropped 4/6 and still rubbs ever so lightly when loaded to the edge of the stops
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 08:23 AM
  #28  
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the 105 mph is what factory Drive shafts are balanced up to.
Mark
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 10:40 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wkdivr
. A c/f shaft would probably cost, maybe $2500, .
They were around 900 last time i checked into it
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 10:54 AM
  #30  
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I just looked into this last month Spoolin.

1) no one will make the CF driveshaft as long as you need it anyway There is one company that has made one up to 104" but the RPM limit is like 3200...

2) The 2 piece DS is a simple fix. I used Dynotech and fabbed the mount for it. No pics, and the truck isn't here, but I did it all with the bed installed.
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