GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Need new drive-shaft...they said not possible.

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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #11  
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If you go with a 2 piece, brace the **** out of your carrier bearing and support. The stronger that can be the less it'll deflect and the less likely it'll be to fail.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ranwalk
What crossmember did you use for the 80e swap? Did it maybe raise up the tailshaft too high?
Custom notched one. I can run out and take a picture of my underside if it will help. Thought I had some but was looking through my folders and I have nothing there.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
If you go with a 2 piece, brace the **** out of your carrier bearing and support. The stronger that can be the less it'll deflect and the less likely it'll be to fail.
Will do bro! That and add 20 drive shaft loops in case of emergency!!!
But before I do that I have to fab a crossmember.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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8" - 10" d-shaft diameter? Wow... is that common for aluminum shafts?
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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Go Carbon Fiber, They are rated to over 2000ft/lbs and if they break they shatter causing no damage to the truck
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZebes
Go Carbon Fiber, They are rated to over 2000ft/lbs and if they break they shatter causing no damage to the truck
expensive as all getout, and if they so much as TOUCH something while turning, they will disentigrate. in your situation, you would have been stranded somewhere if you had a carbon fiber shaft in the truck.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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Just went under for a peek. Here's what it looks like.

Ranwalk, looks like I was wrong. Isn't notched at all but a ledge was built and a spacer mounted on top of that.





Here's a picture of the scuff marks on the crossmember and the marks on the shaft...upon closer inspection it doesn't look like it's cutting or scoring itelf but just rubbing...which doesn't make it any less of a problem.



The two crossmembers I have available to me are the after one that's getting hit by the drive shaft...



And the forward one that is right beneath the fuel pump. It's about 15 inches from the tailshaft of the Tranny.





Idealy I need one right in the middle of the two.

Here's a long view of some of the stuff I have running in the vicinity of the drive shaft.

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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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This is true, but I've never seen a 2 piece CF d-shaft. That would be big $$$$.

8" is common for an Al. shaft, especially in diesels. It has to be such a big dia. because Al. isn't as strong as steel. But because they're so big, they have a lower critical speed as Spoolin' said earlier (like 105mph).
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZebes
Go Carbon Fiber, They are rated to over 2000ft/lbs and if they break they shatter causing no damage to the truck
If I need to I might get one. Like I said earlier, if I was to cheap out on something a drive shaft would not be the thing to do it on. Look at what happened with 1slowhoe. Lost his tranny, fuel pump, bunch of hoses and pipes and luckily his engine was ok.

Originally Posted by vtec
expensive as all getout, and if they so much as TOUCH something while turning, they will disentigrate. in your situation, you would have been stranded somewhere if you had a carbon fiber shaft in the truck.
I wasn't aware of it's shattering but that could be a simple fix with some drive shaft loops and chicken wire or mesh to build a cage around it.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
...But because they're so big, they have a lower critical speed as Spoolin' said earlier (like 105mph).
Should be noted that I have gone 150 with it. Wasn't the smartest I'll admit and won't do it again but it did hold up to that speed. There was some vibrations from like 115-125 mph but after that it was real smooth.

Makes me think it has a critical RPM but once it's past that it's ok. Again not the smartest thing, I know.
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