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Old 02-09-2018, 08:16 PM
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I'm in the middle of the 80 swap. Already found out for myself that the ear on the passenger side of the bell housing needs to be cut off AFTER I had the trans mounted up and bolts started on the driver side.
I'm wanting to make sure I tie in the fluid lines correctly. The top line (straighter tubing) goes into the front port and the bottom line (has more bend in it) is the one that needs to be extended to the rear...correct?

Upon searching that I found this which really caught my attention, can anyone verify that I'll need to order this part? I thought I could just plug the cooler lines in but some say the rear fitting is different and has caused 80's to fail.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...s-help-485402/
Old 02-09-2018, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 12sec.5.3
I'm in the middle of the 80 swap. Already found out for myself that the ear on the passenger side of the bell housing needs to be cut off AFTER I had the trans mounted up and bolts started on the driver side.
I'm wanting to make sure I tie in the fluid lines correctly. The top line (straighter tubing) goes into the front port and the bottom line (has more bend in it) is the one that needs to be extended to the rear...correct?

Upon searching that I found this which really caught my attention, can anyone verify that I'll need to order this part? I thought I could just plug the cooler lines in but some say the rear fitting is different and has caused 80's to fail.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...s-help-485402/
Extend the rear one using rubber trans line or 3/8 brake line and a compression fitting.

The rear fitting has to be the long one or it won't lubricate the clutch packs properly and you'll burn them up.
Old 02-10-2018, 08:39 AM
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I’m not saying it’s the “right way” but I cut both of my lines, when I installed my aftermarket trans cooler, put a double flare on both sides of the voids (4 double flares) and extended them with oil rated rubber hose and hose clamps. The flares are just to give the hose clamps something to grab onto so that the hose won’t slip off the line. Been a few years and 20,xxx miles. No issues what so ever.
Old 02-10-2018, 10:15 AM
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So you didn't use the long rear fitting?
Old 02-11-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 12sec.5.3
I'm in the middle of the 80 swap. Already found out for myself that the ear on the passenger side of the bell housing needs to be cut off AFTER I had the trans mounted up and bolts started on the driver side.
I'm wanting to make sure I tie in the fluid lines correctly. The top line (straighter tubing) goes into the front port and the bottom line (has more bend in it) is the one that needs to be extended to the rear...correct?

Upon searching that I found this which really caught my attention, can anyone verify that I'll need to order this part? I thought I could just plug the cooler lines in but some say the rear fitting is different and has caused 80's to fail.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...s-help-485402/
What year is the 80e? The longer fitting for the rear is not in all models. If it's a '97 or newer, which im guessing it is given the tabs on the bell housing, it must have the longer fitting. And although it sucks you'll need to trim off that tab in order for it to fit right.

Last edited by darkirish63; 02-11-2018 at 09:16 AM.
Old 02-11-2018, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 12sec.5.3
So you didn't use the long rear fitting?
I was just referring to the fact that I used rubber hose and clamps to extend the lines. I have a pre 97 4l80, so the fittings are the same.
Old 02-11-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by darkirish63
What year is the 80e? The longer fitting for the rear is not in all models. If it's a '97 or newer, which im guessing it is given the tabs on the bell housing, it must have the longer fitting. And although it sucks you'll need to trim off that tab in order for it to fit right.
Yep. I had to do the same. I was able to use my 20v cordless sawzall. I also have the inspection cover and had to trim it as well.
Old 02-12-2018, 08:14 PM
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Pardon my lack of knowledge here, but are we talking about the actual fitting that threads into the trans housing or the tubing for the quick connect that may need to be “the long one”?

I decided at the last minute to upgrade to the ss Speed Engineering long tubes with Y pipe while I was at it so that slowed the process a little bc I didn’t order the headers until the truck was all torn apart. I also got the ear trimmed off and tranny is all mounted up. I have a few things left to do like tie in the cooler lines, run and connect the wire for the extra speed sensor, shim and bolt up the converter, then check to see if the driveshaft will work or not. Then to try and figure out where to start to get it tuned. I have EFI Live but didn’t really do any homework on this so I’m lost. Any help would be appreciated lol. Thanks guys
Old 02-12-2018, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 12sec.5.3
Pardon my lack of knowledge here, but are we talking about the actual fitting that threads into the trans housing or the tubing for the quick connect that may need to be “the long one”?

I decided at the last minute to upgrade to the ss Speed Engineering long tubes with Y pipe while I was at it so that slowed the process a little bc I didn’t order the headers until the truck was all torn apart. I also got the ear trimmed off and tranny is all mounted up. I have a few things left to do like tie in the cooler lines, run and connect the wire for the extra speed sensor, shim and bolt up the converter, then check to see if the driveshaft will work or not. Then to try and figure out where to start to get it tuned. I have EFI Live but didn’t really do any homework on this so I’m lost. Any help would be appreciated lol. Thanks guys
I was talking about the rear fitting. I ran braided lines and AN fitting for my lines. Didn't use the factory stiff tubes.
Old 02-12-2018, 08:21 PM
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I went back and look at my post and answered my own question about the fitting. Obviously it’s the fitting itself that is specific to the year of the tranny. I’m not sure which one I have honestly, I brought it to a reputable builder and he gave me warranty so I’m not really that concerned about it.


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