GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Long Bars

Old Oct 21, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #21  
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I found a good price on some 5/8" rod ends and 1.25"x.120 DOM tubing. You guys think that is strong enough for a 48" bar?
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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My tubing will be a lil bigger diameter than that. I am basing mine off of proven versions that are ran on some quick lightnings.

Last edited by slowec; Oct 24, 2011 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 07:25 PM
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Time to build the brackets!
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Nice! So how long did you make them?
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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They are 48". They are "Stifflers Bars" though, I did not fab them , it will be up to me to make these work on my truck.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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Is your truck stock height in the rear or do you have 2" shackles? What size tires? Get me that info and I will plug it into my drawing and make some suggestions on rear bracket length and bar angle. In return, measure the bar diameter and joint size of those Stiffler bars for me.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
Is your truck stock height in the rear or do you have 2" shackles? What size tires? Get me that info and I will plug it into my drawing and make some suggestions on rear bracket length and bar angle. In return, measure the bar diameter and joint size of those Stiffler bars for me.
Sure...
2" shackles, 325/50/15 =28", thinking I'll remove the overload leaf to because I won't need it to fight spring wrap anymore..maybe

The bars are 48" center of bolt to center of bolt. The chromoly bars are 1.385" thick and the rod ends are .750" eye size with grade 8 bolts that are .492" diameter and has .747" inserts to center the bolts. I think he said the tubing was .120. These are the same bars he makes for lightnings. I just asked to buy them because he had done the research and the materials were pricey anyhow. it would have cost me almost as much to order the raw materials.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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See the attached pic for graphic representation. You can use this to move the bars as you wish. The holes below the axle are 1" apart. As shown in the graphic, mounting the bar 3" down from the axle and inclining at 4* gives you 100% antisquat. Mounting the bar farther from the axle in the rear and farther up on the frame in the front is going to increase antisquat. It doesn't look like there is any way to mount the front of the bar below the frame (or even parallel) and retain above the 100% line.
Attached Thumbnails Long Bars-longbars-stockheight.jpg  
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
See the attached pic for graphic representation. You can use this to move the bars as you wish. The holes below the axle are 1" apart. As shown in the graphic, mounting the bar 3" down from the axle and inclining at 4* gives you 100% antisquat. Mounting the bar farther from the axle in the rear and farther up on the frame in the front is going to increase antisquat. It doesn't look like there is any way to mount the front of the bar below the frame (or even parallel) and retain above the 100% line.
I plan to have the front mounting bracket beside the frame, not below it . I will need to measure it but I think the brackets I was going to weld to the spring perches would be 2" below the perches so probably well below 4" lower than the center of the axle. it will all bolt on so adjustments can be made. I cannot read the picture that well. Could you e-mail it to rodneyhorne1@gmail.com. I am not sure what you mean by 100% line. Thanks for your input.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 08:39 AM
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Sorry, AutoCAD doesn't export to jpg very well. I sent you a pdf of it which is much clearer. Once you see the full drawing, you will understand what I was talking about.
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