adriver

iTrader: (1)

I need to swap the slave cylinder on my 02 with a 5spd. I have the bolts taken out of the bellhousing, the slave cylinder is bled and empty. The sleeve on the slave appears to be compressed, but not completely. The shift tower is removed. The trans is sitting on a homemade trans jack, and I just can't get the trans to disconnect and slide out. I've verified all around on the outside with a boroscope. The trans fluid is drained, the clutch line is near empty. I have been at this for a few days. It was just a few weeks ago I pulled the same trans out of the junkyard in 105 degrees, covered in dirt and oil, and did it in a hour or so. All the youtube videos, say it's ready to come out. My service manual says I've done the steps.

I think the splined, input shaft is just separating or sliding. I can get the housing to move away from the engine about 1/4 or a little more, but I can't get the trans out.

Any ideas? Do I need to just pull on it harder? (i've used ratchet straps before on stuff, and that's my next idea). Is there some other reason that I can't get this to split?, or known issue? Thanks.

wretched73

iTrader: (1)

Probably a dowel is all rusted and getting caught on the bellhousing. Put your big boy pants on and man handle it out.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

That's all it is, isn't it.

I've gone around the edge of the bellhousing, and can get separation. I think it's just the shaft.


I'm not getting a good angle on it. I was thinking of using some ratchet straps on a couple of the holes, and attach to the back, and slightly tightening em to "get a little help", but not trying to pull it off with em, because I don't want to stress the case.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

You might have to pry bar it off. Not totally uncommon

RDF1

Yep a couple ratchet straps work wonders.
I pulled a TR6060 out of a 2010 camaro that had a 416 on a 300 shot and it had twisted the splines on the input shaft and almost locked it up to the clutch splines.. TOok me hours to get the thing out.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

So turns out I'm not that weak, I'm just a little blind. I didn't get the top bolt out of the bellhousing. I was certain I didn't see anything. I also had the foam **** surround from the manuals blocking the view from the back. I pulled out the foam, and can nearly get a socket on the last bolt, but the bottom of the firewall is in the way. It's been a rough few days, and hopefully I didn't damage anything. Gonna let my brain and spirit take a break from this tonight. Just ordered a few mid length sockets and a longer extension from Amazon that will be here tomorrow. I at least feel like after several days, that I'm pushing forward again. I have several 15mm deep sockets. I might cut an inch off one tonight if I get motivated to get back out there, BUT I'LL BET ANYONE I WON'T.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

I don't know how "deep" (haha punny) you want to get into this, but the intake is a 15-20min job to remove and that top stud is rigggggggggght there with the intake off

I DESTROYED the sound insulation on my firewall recently doing that top stud and now I have my intake off to redo wiring and I am so pissed at myself for not having taken the intake off to begin with 🙄

So, just a tip I learned the hard way. Not sure how particular you want to be and how deep you want to get

adriver

iTrader: (1)

Wow, tempting. That should certainly help me next time, and anyone that stumbles across this. That's not difficult to do, and might help to get em torqued right. I was about to take off the wheel and fender to see if could get in there better.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

was also gonna suggest this until i saw below

the wife's hummer gave me some fits swapping the clutch 5months ago. turns out there's less room to fart around in that trans tunnel than the full-sizes. i ended up cobbling together a couple feet of extensions to work the top two bolts (which took ~30min each compared to 10min for the other 9 combined).

another consideration is ensuring you're pulling the input shaft straight backwards out of the pilot bearing and not still cockeyed from whatever finagling you had to do to reach the bellhousing bolts. the stress from twisted engine mounts wanting to return is enough to grab onto the trans.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

I "made a trans jack" out of spare parts, that I think is going to work great for this. I don't plan on pulling it out from the under the pickup, but I think this will let me get it back enough to give it a quick brake clean spray and wipe, then add in the slave cylinder, and be able to get it back lined up.
I also replaced the engine mounts, I want to say a couple years ago, maybe less. I probably don't need to use it, but I was thinking of just using the ratchet strap around the tailshaft and the frame tube that sits right behind the trans cross member. That seemed like I would be able to pull it off pretty straight and right at the correct angle that way.