I blew my driveshaft! Horray!!!!!
Nov 20, 2006 | 01:01 AM
#11
Originally Posted by FarmerBeau
Thanks!!!
Thats strange. Im no expert on this crap but I dont understand how adding a carrier bearing would make it better than a single strong piece of steel or aluminum. That is just another link or entity to go wrong. That also means i would have to weld a crossmember in and get everything straight in a perfect line. I dont have the tools or know-how get it right on straight and im a poor college kid that cant afford that kind of work to be done.
Thats strange. Im no expert on this crap but I dont understand how adding a carrier bearing would make it better than a single strong piece of steel or aluminum. That is just another link or entity to go wrong. That also means i would have to weld a crossmember in and get everything straight in a perfect line. I dont have the tools or know-how get it right on straight and im a poor college kid that cant afford that kind of work to be done.
im drunk
it makes sense in my head somehow 
Nov 20, 2006 | 01:17 AM
#12
Originally Posted by VicRed
when you have a really long drive shaft, the faster you spin it the more middle of it wants to be thrown off its axis. When you have a carrier bearing its cuts the shaft into 2 small pieces, therefore lessening the force on the shaft.
Hopefully that makes some sort of sense. I know what I wanna say, but i cant seem to type it out very well.
Hopefully that makes some sort of sense. I know what I wanna say, but i cant seem to type it out very well.
A 2 piece shaft would be better but I don't know if you really need it.
Check out this critical speed calculator
Nov 20, 2006 | 01:39 AM
#13
Originally Posted by TXsilverado
think of it this way....which do you think would break easier....a 6" piece of pencil, or a 3" piece of pencil?
im drunk it makes sense in my head somehow
im drunk
it makes sense in my head somehow I like your math!
But hell im drunk too!
Nov 20, 2006 | 08:31 AM
#15
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 216
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From: Sand and Jello,Texas
I'd say two piece would be better. Espicially since you are running a long bed truck.. I have an extended cab truck w short bed and it has a two piece.. I haven't blown it yet but buying three u joints instead of 2 can be a pain in the ***.
Nov 20, 2006 | 09:38 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Sexy Party Mod
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Spring, Texas
Thanks guys. Like i said earlier, i dont have the funding to have a two peice fabbed up in my **** and im not pushing an UNGODLY amount of power. I understand how it may be stronger but its just not economical.
Hey Mark, I took a look at that calculator and from what i gathered its a calculator that figures the material specs and strength vs RPM right? Basically, where will the driveshaft see high stress? I could be an idiot and looking at it all wrong.
So would steel be the best route for me to take? I know its strong and usually cheaper than Al....
Hey Mark, I took a look at that calculator and from what i gathered its a calculator that figures the material specs and strength vs RPM right? Basically, where will the driveshaft see high stress? I could be an idiot and looking at it all wrong.
So would steel be the best route for me to take? I know its strong and usually cheaper than Al....
Nov 20, 2006 | 10:05 AM
#18
Thread Starter
Sexy Party Mod
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From: Spring, Texas
Originally Posted by BlackGMC
Since yours is a long bed, couldn't you use a stock two-piece from a extended cab? The Long Bed and Extended cab on the same wheel base or not? Just a thought.
Accoding to these specs there is only 1" difference in wheelbase.
Specs
Accoding to these specs there is only 1" difference in wheelbase.
Specs
Im pretty sure i dont have the supporting crossmember.
Nov 20, 2006 | 10:11 AM
#19
Originally Posted by FarmerBeau
Im pretty sure i dont have the supporting crossmember.