Hey guys the G80 Gov-Bomb is done in my 8.5" 10 Bolt (donated from a '87 C10) under my 2wd K5 (specs in sig). I was already planning on replacing the 3.42 gears for 4.11 gears along with either a Yukon DuraGrip or Eaton TrueTrac and upgrading to Moser 30 spline axles. I was talking with an old buddy of mine and he is trying to talk me into buying a 9.5" 14 Bolt, then having the stock axles welded and redrilled for my 5x5" lug pattern.

I know guys with bone stock 10 bolt NBS trucks running 408 strokers and havent had any serious issues (yet).

If possible I'd prefer to keep the 10 bolt since I already have it and 9.5" 14 bolts run at least $350 around here with unknown gears and worn out G80's. Plus the aftermarket LSD's are more expensive than their 10 bolt counterparts.

This K5 is my weekend bruiser that has yet to hookup or seen a track. I do plan on making a few passes next Spring.

I am good with the upgraded 10 bolt or is it worth the added expense of going with a 9.5" 14 bolt?

Reasons and details would be great.

Thanks!!

 

A built 10 bolt can take some power in lighter rigs. But, Im not one to chance it. I love my 14 bolts, I put one in my 97 with a g80 and beat on it pretty good and never had a problem

 

My K5 weighs 4400 lbs w/the top on, 4200 lbs w/o the top.

 

Your going to get guys on both sides of the fence with this topic.

If you don't put it on slicks or get wheel hop, it will live.

If you were planing on putting parts in it anyway, the parts are virtually the same cost between the two. Maybe $200 more overall for the 14 bolt 9.5. so don't let that hold you back.

 

Plenty of guys have gone in the 10's with them, no issues. Weight is always a factor, but they are stout for the most part when built.

 

mine is a 1995 10 bolt with strange 33 spline axels, full spool, 3:73 gears, girdle cover, billit main caps, big 9" bearing ends, w/ the truck weighing in at 4,000#'s... I have chipped some 3:42 ring gears in the past but with the 3:73 gears ive been 1.37 60' and low 1.40's pretty consistant... If i had it to do all over id go with a dana 60 with the kinda weight your pushing... if your going with a 4:11 gear that will take A LOT of strain off your rearend though, speaking from experience hope this helps!

 

The LSD is about a $200 difference in price between the two, but then I have to factor in the initial cost of the 14 bolt ($350) and then another $400 in custom welding, machining, and heat treating in order to get the 5x5" lug pattern I require since there none of the aftermarket offers axles with the 5x5" lug pattern (not interested in buying new rims).

I might add a set of 15x10" steelies and 29x12" slicks down the road, time will tell.

 

Eaton Posi is within $50 between the two rear ends. All depends on were you shop. Hell there is a niece used one on ebay for $200 right now

The TA cover is $20-$30 more for the 9.5 . Not necessary but just for comparison.

Rebuild kit, same thing within 20-50 depending on who you buy from.

Axles... The stock axles in a 14 bolt will hold up just fine. You might want to shop around on the Re Drill job though. It's $90 to weld and redrill each axle from Moser. Other shops charge similar prices.

As far as the price of the rear. Shop around. Take a small road trip. Orange County and LA county are not that far away. Plenty of wrecking yards out here that are alot less money.

 

The problem with a DANA 60 is that its not a bolt in swap. A 14 bolt from his year range will bolt right in.

 

I run mid 10s in an ext cab and I'm launching out of the hole on 100% on the bottle no controllers or timing being pulled.
Just a truetrac and motive gears, stock axles.