No, but I'm going dually with a Tahoe.

 

Phhttt.... so I went by your username.

 

ps - my NNBS ecsb 4x4 towed a car trailer with a 3K mustang no prob and never once over heated with the tru cool.

.... a lot of myths in this thread about 60s. The tune is more important that the parts of the trans.

 

later yr 60s arent the same as they older ones


most of the GMT800 trucks have a very weak 60 even if it was built, the later designs are better inside and out

but in the end a 60 or 65 isnt nothing more then a remodeled 700r4 which was always a GM weak trans...was meant for light cars and trucks...

 

Agree to a point; a bad tune can kill a built trans, but a great tune can't save a weak trans. I have a great tune with stock line pressure, very mild shift firmness and plenty of tq management left in, and I still snapped the input shaft in two in the middle of third gear and destroyed the front planetary

 

Even on a built on, the problem is the shafts are SMALL. They will either twist or snap.

Even a stock 4l80 input shaft will reliably hold 750 hp and the output shaft is, for all intents and purposes, unbreakable

 

I'm with choda on this one, I ran my stock 60 just vette servos, with stock cooler and towed 8k lbs. Several times just use third locked on hills. Since then I put a cooler in and tow 6k lbs with no issues. And at times 35000lbs like in my video

 

Yet a stock 5.7 Express NOT towing killed one in ~38k and a mildly cammed 5.7 in the same van killed a 65E spec build in 40K. That was two transmissions before 80K. My buddy rode in my Express with the 80E and I was just driving it around normally and he asked me if the trans was "BUILT". 60/65e and even 70E are TURDS compared to an 80E or 85E.

 

Mine lasted -20/30k on 7 psi. 2007 Suburban. 36's and tow 4k all the time. 80e going in now..gross weight is a major factor.

 

Especially when you tow. You will really like the 80E once you get your gears in the right range for your tire size to overcome the tall 1st and 2nd gear ratios.