GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Getting Swaybars!!!!!!!!!

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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 08:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
I thought that I heard that you have to move the gas tank or something for the Hotchkis rear bar, while the Hellwig is a direct bolt in. Didn't realize that the Hotchkis was hollow like the factory bars, thought they were solid like the Hellwig.

If I remember correctly that was just changing out the leaf springs.
Either way its no problem just loosen the bands andshift it about 1 in
so the bolt will come out on the front of the leaf

like chingon said there hollow but heavy
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 10:08 PM
  #22  
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From what little applied physics I learned in my search for the idea sway bar, a hollow bar is stronger than a solid bar. This is because, in order to bend, twisting force must overcome 4 surfaces in order to twist a hollow bar (outside top, inside top, inside bottom, outside bottom...if you look at a cross-section of a bar), whereas with a solid bar, once the center starts to twist, the entire bar then becomes easier to twist even further.

Hollow bars are also more difficult to make, which makes them more expensive.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 10:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Naked AV
From what little applied physics I learned in my search for the idea sway bar, a hollow bar is stronger than a solid bar. This is because, in order to bend, twisting force must overcome 4 surfaces in order to twist a hollow bar (outside top, inside top, inside bottom, outside bottom...if you look at a cross-section of a bar), whereas with a solid bar, once the center starts to twist, the entire bar then becomes easier to twist even further.

Hollow bars are also more difficult to make, which makes them more expensive.
explain that to a torsion bar
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #24  
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Think im gonna do hotchkis!!!!!!
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 10:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by moregrip
explain that to a torsion bar
Torsion bars are made to give (and take) for ride's sake, which is why a solid design is perfect for them. As for sway bars, I would rather they hold the inside-turn portion of my vehicle tight to the ground, I really don't want them giving very much at all.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Naked AV
Torsion bars are made to give (and take) for ride's sake, which is why a solid design is perfect for them. As for sway bars, I would rather they hold the inside-turn portion of my vehicle tight to the ground, I really don't want them giving very much at all.
hence spring steel duddets!
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 04:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Naked AV
From what little applied physics I learned in my search for the idea sway bar, a hollow bar is stronger than a solid bar. This is because, in order to bend, twisting force must overcome 4 surfaces in order to twist a hollow bar (outside top, inside top, inside bottom, outside bottom...if you look at a cross-section of a bar), whereas with a solid bar, once the center starts to twist, the entire bar then becomes easier to twist even further.

Hollow bars are also more difficult to make, which makes them more expensive.
hollow is better
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 04:17 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tokez420
hollow is better
4 surfaces vs. More Surface Area? hmm, got any proof?
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 05:02 PM
  #29  
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Got the belltech sways for $300.....front hardly made a difference - rear helped out quite a bit. I'm sure hotchkis are better but I just came across a guy selling the belltech's. I'd just get the rear bar and put urethane bushings in the front.
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by O3GMC
Got the belltech sways for $300.....front hardly made a difference - rear helped out quite a bit. I'm sure hotchkis are better but I just came across a guy selling the belltech's. I'd just get the rear bar and put urethane bushings in the front.
thats what I'm thinking of doing, rear w/front urethanes
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