front diff questions
#22
I will be running an AWD NVG149 transfer case. I will leave the coupler on the passenger shaft engaged all the time and with a locker run open differential all the time I am driving. When I want to go fast in a straight line, lock the locker unit in and step on the gas. I will disengage it before turning at the end of a run.
#24
I will be running an AWD NVG149 transfer case. I will leave the coupler on the passenger shaft engaged all the time and with a locker run open differential all the time I am driving. When I want to go fast in a straight line, lock the locker unit in and step on the gas. I will disengage it before turning at the end of a run.
#28
I am not certain on that. I think the simplest solution would be to shim the hub out .250 on each side. I could cut some off of the mating surfaces too, but I really want to leave the CV shafts completely stock in case I break one. I would just rather replace it than have to make a custom part.
#29
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Really curious to see if you gain anything by this swap. Its a little heavier than the 8.25" one, and probably a littler higher parasitic loss. Maybe mine is a factory freak, but ive beat it like a redheaded step child and not had a single problem breaking anything. The saving grace might be because it is open and as soon as you lock it stress will go through the roof which brings me back to my first question.
The 8.25" gets a bad rep because its small and aluminum housing, but I havent seen many broken that arent stupid with them. Engage 4wd before going fast, dont shift out during, keep cvs flat, etc.
The 8.25" gets a bad rep because its small and aluminum housing, but I havent seen many broken that arent stupid with them. Engage 4wd before going fast, dont shift out during, keep cvs flat, etc.