Finished with 14 bolt swap...Vibration
#11
Originally Posted by Bullhead00
I only went from an 8.6" to a 9.5".
#12
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Thats why I dont understand why people say not to go to a 14 bolt due to "all" the drivetrain loss you will experience. Me personally I dont see it either.
#13
Originally Posted by BADMOFO
That is a good sized difference, and sure to eat up some power. I went from a 10bolt 8.5" rear in my G-body to a Ford 9" and lost about 3 tenths. I did, however, also upgrade to a 3" drive shaft at the same time, which also absorbed some power. I'd expect you to pick up a bit with the gear and the posi, so I doubt you'll lose any overall E.T. Why did you upgrade the rear in a 14 second truck? The stock rear should be good for over 500hp in my opinion.
#14
If you simply used the 1500 yoke from the 8.6 on the 2500 9.5, you wouldnt have needed that bastard conversion ujoint.
the 8.5/8.6 yoke is a direct fit on a 9.5" pinion/seal assembly.
You need to get some heavier u-joints now so that your driveshaft ujoints are as strong as the rearend.
A 10 bolt with 500hp in a 4000+ truck, yeah right. I have a 14 second truck and I break 10 bolt components all the time. MAYBE if you add aftermarket gears, axles and carrier. Stock stuff will have ZERO durability at 500 hp in a 4000+lb truck.
I will be installing the 14bolt 9.5" SF rear as well. I will be using the heavier u-joints and 14 bolt yoke.
peace
Hog
the 8.5/8.6 yoke is a direct fit on a 9.5" pinion/seal assembly.
You need to get some heavier u-joints now so that your driveshaft ujoints are as strong as the rearend.
A 10 bolt with 500hp in a 4000+ truck, yeah right. I have a 14 second truck and I break 10 bolt components all the time. MAYBE if you add aftermarket gears, axles and carrier. Stock stuff will have ZERO durability at 500 hp in a 4000+lb truck.
I will be installing the 14bolt 9.5" SF rear as well. I will be using the heavier u-joints and 14 bolt yoke.
peace
Hog
#15
Originally Posted by hog
If you simply used the 1500 yoke from the 8.6 on the 2500 9.5, you wouldnt have needed that bastard conversion ujoint.
the 8.5/8.6 yoke is a direct fit on a 9.5" pinion/seal assembly.
You need to get some heavier u-joints now so that your driveshaft ujoints are as strong as the rearend.
A 10 bolt with 500hp in a 4000+ truck, yeah right. I have a 14 second truck and I break 10 bolt components all the time. MAYBE if you add aftermarket gears, axles and carrier. Stock stuff will have ZERO durability at 500 hp in a 4000+lb truck.
I will be installing the 14bolt 9.5" SF rear as well. I will be using the heavier u-joints and 14 bolt yoke.
peace
Hog
the 8.5/8.6 yoke is a direct fit on a 9.5" pinion/seal assembly.
You need to get some heavier u-joints now so that your driveshaft ujoints are as strong as the rearend.
A 10 bolt with 500hp in a 4000+ truck, yeah right. I have a 14 second truck and I break 10 bolt components all the time. MAYBE if you add aftermarket gears, axles and carrier. Stock stuff will have ZERO durability at 500 hp in a 4000+lb truck.
I will be installing the 14bolt 9.5" SF rear as well. I will be using the heavier u-joints and 14 bolt yoke.
peace
Hog
#16
Originally Posted by BADMOFO
That is a good sized difference, and sure to eat up some power. I went from a 10bolt 8.5" rear in my G-body to a Ford 9" and lost about 3 tenths. I did, however, also upgrade to a 3" drive shaft at the same time, which also absorbed some power. I'd expect you to pick up a bit with the gear and the posi, so I doubt you'll lose any overall E.T. Why did you upgrade the rear in a 14 second truck? The stock rear should be good for over 500hp in my opinion.
#17
Originally Posted by Bullhead00, Jan 14th 3:49pm
Originally Posted by BADMOFO
That is a good sized difference, and sure to eat up some power. I went from a 10bolt 8.5" rear in my G-body to a Ford 9" and lost about 3 tenths. I did, however, also upgrade to a 3" drive shaft at the same time, which also absorbed some power. I'd expect you to pick up a bit with the gear and the posi, so I doubt you'll lose any overall E.T. Why did you upgrade the rear in a 14 second truck? The stock rear should be good for over 500hp in my opinion.
Originally Posted by Bullhead00, Jan 14th 4:34pm
Originally Posted by BADMOFO
That is a good sized difference, and sure to eat up some power. I went from a 10bolt 8.5" rear in my G-body to a Ford 9" and lost about 3 tenths. I did, however, also upgrade to a 3" drive shaft at the same time, which also absorbed some power. I'd expect you to pick up a bit with the gear and the posi, so I doubt you'll lose any overall E.T. Why did you upgrade the rear in a 14 second truck? The stock rear should be good for over 500hp in my opinion.
#18
sho 'nuff... yea, ya right!
*edit* damn... now I saw 1slow01Z71 post here a second ago.
You got delete rights?
It's all trickery, man!
*edit* damn... now I saw 1slow01Z71 post here a second ago.
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
It takes skill to do that
It's all trickery, man!
#19
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 0
From: Spring, TX
Your pinion angle is off. More than likely you will need to nose the diff down a bit. Possibly install 2* shims with the fat side to the back.
The bigger diff may have a different angle that the axle pads are welded on that the leafs rest on.
One other thing you might want to check. Make sure that the pinion nose is the exact same length as the smaller diffs.
If it is longer, you may be placing your u-joints in a bind. Just a thought.
Jim
The bigger diff may have a different angle that the axle pads are welded on that the leafs rest on.
One other thing you might want to check. Make sure that the pinion nose is the exact same length as the smaller diffs.
If it is longer, you may be placing your u-joints in a bind. Just a thought.
Jim



