Yea, my front pads have always been like new when I replaced them, but I have gone through rears. There is a TSB in reference to installing flaps in the rear wheel wells to keep road grime, moisture, salt, etc. off of the rear brake assemblies and prevent premature wear, I just never got around to addressing it.

I got mine from AutoAnything dot com, but I priced shopped them at Amazon and a few other places, I'm sure that they make them for the OBS's, they have a complete product line

Thanks Tim...you're correct about the anti-seize, but it's my understanding that this isn't the case with the nickel grade stuff? I used it for the first time, the last time that I did my brakes (over 8 years ago) as I didn't realize that I was out of the stuff made by Wurth that I used to use when I got it free from the dealership, but I wanted to put something on the sliders. I was in a pinch and I used the nickel stuff that I had and I haven't had any problems with the slide pin operation thus far. Permatex rates their nickel anti-seize up to 2400* F. When I removed the sliders this time around they slid out freely, and the anti-seize still had a moist feeling to it actually, but now that you have me thinking about it, I think that I'll get some Permatex, Syn-Glide, or CRC Brake and Caliper grease from AutoZone and re-do it the right way. Thanks for making me think and making more work for me buddy!

 

Sorry Billy, didnt mean more work for ya LOL.

Hell they be fine , prob can wait till ya get some extra free time.

It prob wont be an issue for guys like us who are always wrenching on our vehicles,

The guy or girl who slaps brakes on and doesnt worry bout them till they give problems are the ones who will experience problems if ya know what im sayin! LOL

just was tryin to educate people who read this post and never tackled brakes before

 

What tool did you use to change the brake fluid?

 

Well I went to AutoZone and got the CRC Synthetic Brake Grease...almost $12 for the bottle Thanks a lot Tim I should have just stolen some from work, but I'm still home healing the left arm, and it was worth the 12 bux to me to not have to swing by my job today . But you're right, anti-seize isn't the right stuff to use, and I don't want the good folks here following my lead and doing the wrong thing. I'll be jacking the truck up either today or within the next few days and I'll clean out the nickel stuff and use the right stuff I needed it for side jobs anyway

I have a brake bleeder that hooks up to my air compressor and has a small reservoir, that I use when I'm just changing the fluid in the master. It doesn't get the small bit of fluid at the very front of the reservoir, but besides that it works pretty well. My only complaint with it is that it's reservoir is pretty small, and has to be emptied a few times before the master reservoir is emptied. It's about $99 from Matco Tools, but I'm sure that if you searched the net you could find it for less. For a poor man's semi-flush, a turkey baster that you get at the grocery store for a few bucks will probably work.

Here's the exact one that I have:



When I do a complete flush, through all of the caliper bleeders, I use this cool tool made by Motive that works great. I've actually never used it on my truck, but I've used it on other vehicles when doing side jobs and I love it. I think that it goes for around $150ish:

 

Replaced the nickel anti-seize with CRC Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease and took some pics which I added to the first post

 

Hey Bud great review man, i researched these brake pads and slotted rotors for the obs and they have em, will be getting them when i goto replace thanks again!

 

FWIW I'm running the EBC Ultimax pads and they also stop pretty well. A tad dusty but decent grip. I'm happy with my Ultimax plain rotors too.

 

i have the motive bleeder my self makes life a hell of a lot easier

 

Cool deal man, glad that I was able to help! You have a sweet truck BTW

Where do the Ulitmax pads fall in line vs the Green Stuff? Are they more performance oriented or economy oriented?

Initially, my front pads dusted like crazy, but they're brand new and have that break-in coating on them. Hopefully I'll get a chance to clean my wheels this weekend and see what happens. I figure that I'll give it about 500 miles until I can make a real assessment. The whole reason that I went with the 7000 series in the front vs. the 6000 is that they are supposed to dust less, but you give up a little stopping force supposedly. If the 6k series stops even better as advertised, then I'm really impressed.

Yea it really works well doesn't it? Especially when nobody else is around to pump brakes for you

 

The ultimax are the economy EBC line. They are an aramid fiber/metallic pad. I was just happy to get decently priced rotors that aren't made in china lol. The break in coating was dusty for me.