GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Detroit TruTrac vs. Eaton LSD

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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
BTW, I read through the manual looking for where it said to beat on it to break it in....someone posted that it said this...I couldn't find it
It will hurt the gears before it hurts the unit..
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 10:56 PM
  #12  
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yea. do your heat cycles first.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 10:58 PM
  #13  
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I beat on mine everyday (yes I mean my truetrac you pervs). It's a strong rear end now, I went through 3 open diffs in 3 years hehe.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:00 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by silver-mod-o
I like the idea of the engagement made by worm gears versus the clutches.... Less to wear out, probably fewer moving parts...

I know my tru-trac sitting here is a VERY substantial unit, I don't see myself having problems with it, ill probably swipe a ring gear clean before this thing breaks.
Yea. I can't see me breaking anything that looks this solid.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:06 PM
  #15  
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So the trutrac will lock both wheels from a dead stop? This is what I thought until I recently read to the contrary...
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:09 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
So the trutrac will lock both wheels from a dead stop? This is what I thought until I recently read to the contrary...
Mine does everytime. The only time I have ever had it not lock both is sometimes I will slide around a corner and I can tell that one wheel is spinning more than the other, but as soon as it changes gears into 2nd both lock up HARD and kick the back end even further sideways, then hooks and goes.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:42 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
So the trutrac will lock both wheels from a dead stop?
Sure does, it is a lot of fun.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 07:04 AM
  #18  
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I've said it before and I'll say it again. The trutrac is nothing more than a torque multiplying rear differential. In a nutshell it can only send power to the left rear when there is traction or resistance on the right rear. For ice, snow, and offroad where your right rear tire could get hung up in the air and be subjected to zero traction conditions, torsen style differentials suck. I know since I've run 2 of them in different trucks. Should have learned my lesson the first time. Now for bare tar or dry pavement, they work just fine but that's it. If you snap or pop the clutch with a manual transmission truck and send that right rear tire into a frazzle, it won't send the power to the other wheel because there's no resistance on the right rear. On a eaton LSD with clutches, both back tires are always moving forward at all times. Under cornering the clutches break free to allow the wheels to spin at different speeds, however when driving straight they're both locked all the time so that if a tire gets in a slick condition or is suspended in the air, it'll still transfer power to the left rear since the axles are held together with clutches, make sense?
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 07:06 AM
  #19  
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Oh and if you ever get stuck with a trutrac off road, you have to apply the emergency brake to send power to the left rear to trick the differential into thinking it has traction on the right rear.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 07:43 AM
  #20  
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i have recently gotten my true trac and it is amazing. i dont get offroad... not even gravel lol. but any time i want to spin th tireS it will. both will spin and stay that way. i highly recomend it!
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