well hopefully this will get sorted out and i dont ever have to see that place again... and whoever said that they couldnt even work the dyno scanner right... lol i think thts what they wont admit to me... i just want to be like, damnit, let me do it, but i know i cant do that... I'll be up there tomorrow seeing if its going to be done or not. They mentioned something today, if the pressure is low, they think maybe some metal might be caught in the radiator OR in the aftermarket tranny cooler. It cant be tho, I ran it 2 1/2 hrs to a track and back one nite and no problems.. but a few days later in the morning when on the interstate, it free reved like it was in neutral... Im wondering if they could mess with the pressure that the fluid enters the transmission... I have no idea, but thanks for your all's support.

I just wanted to put this post out there for anyone whos thinking of using aamco or cottman or any place like that... your better off just either finding a small/local shop thats trusted, a hotrod builder of some sort, or just order a performance one.

 

boy does this bring back memories..

I went thru 9 transmissions with Cottmans in 4 months before I finally told them to go screw them selves..( 50,000 mile warranty.. I only put 5,000 totall on all 9 transmissions)
Bit the bullet and took it to a local here in town.. been happy ever since.

 

Hi there, I've been a rebuilder (trans) for 31 years- done a bit of R&D- tech inputs etc. - you have a bad lube restriction- the guys at the shop are not finding it- wish you knew which parts were melting down- I suspect rear planet failure or input sprag failure. when failed on you last time- what exactly did it do- what selector position would it move or not move in- what gears were there (upshifts)- -- Just trying to help and certainly can. craig

 

dont mean to jack your thread SSlow 4.8...

but craig could you check out my thread as well?...

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=348153

thanks.

 

1. Pinion angle is the relationship of the drive shaft to the rear diff, increase the angle and you will get much better launches when drag racing, but it wears out U joints real quick.

2. The squeal you have is more than likely your motor slowing down faster than your accessories causing belt squeal.

 

Thanks, and now that i think of it, i remember my uncle actually saying something about that. This last time when I would take off from a dead stop, it would hang in 1st gear untill 5k+ and it would only shift if i featherd the pedal a bit. Than in 2nd it would do the same, I never got it to shift into 4th I dont think, i really couldnt tell. But from any mph, when I went to floor it, it would act like it free reved in neutral. Soon after, the fluid was burnt to a crisp.

I dont want to tell anyone how to do their job, but I think i'm going to have to start suggesting stuff, i just dont want it sitting in that shop anymore, Im having withdrawls from not driving that truck, i love that thing. And driving the 10mpg turd of a suburban doesnt help any either.

But I appreciate any information I can get a hold of. It really sounds like maybe the fluid isnt moving like it should and i'm not really sure if that has anything to do with lube rescriction or not, thanks Craig.

-Joe.

 

Sounds like you have extreme line pressure- that will cause max throttle type upshifts-(very late) - no matter how far you really are on the gas- so when you are finally in 3rd , say, and you floor it- it will downshift all the way to 1st- the engine cannot catch the car at that speed and it feels like neutral. However, the dangerous condition here, is that at that high of line pressure- the pressure regulator valve stays shut and the result is an almost complete loss of lube as lube is basically PR valve waste- (exhaust if you will.) Have them check line pressure with a guage- hopefully they find high line and can then find the problem.