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Well after 7 years of me beating on the truck, doing burnouts finally caught up with me. At my own car show, on my own burnout pad it only spun one wheel, then I proceed to get pulled off haha. Anyways, it ground off one of the side spider gears and made a mess. 2006 Silverado ss, 2wd, radix at 7 psi, Tick blower cam, the usual bolt ons. 14 bolt 9.5 diff. So I'll be going with a Detroit Trutrack, that much I know. The ring and pinion seem to be fine, so my question is do I replace the case and get it back on the road quick? Or save some money and go from 3.73 to 4.10 gears? Would I notice much of a difference that it would be worth it? I still street drive and do long cruises so I wouldn't want to go any more then that for gears. Would only add about 200 rpm to my cruising speed by my math. Wich I believe would be fine. Any thoughts or insights appreciated.
...it ground off one of the side spider gears and made a mess...do I replace the case and get it back on the road quick?...
The filings from those gears is like carborundum because it's hardened steel. If you feel confident that you can remove every molecule of gear powder from every nook and cranny and every bearing, then just replace the parts. You didn't drive it from Alabama to Chicago, so it's probably confined to just the center section. But at least I have planted the seed of doubt to cause you to consider the possibilities.
Replace the case? What do mean by that? You mean just replace the differential mechanism? Then yes, no reason to replace anything else, but depending on the mileage, just inspect your bearings to make sure they don't have any wear.
I would probably re-inspect the ring pinion with a magnifying glass when you remove it and do a good cleaning. Then, if it looks good, just run it. Probably not worth it to regear since you are boosted application, but not really sure. 4.10s are still fine for highway, it think it's going to be around a 200-300 rpm difference, yes. But if the existing gears are damaged, then I would probably go with 4.10.
Also, check your existing ring gear backlash before taking it apart, as a frame of reference. Good luck.
3.73 to 4.10 is not much of a change. I would likely just change the carrier and carrier bearings as long as the R&P were not damaged. As mentioned, inspect and thoroughly clean, replace what's broken, go do burnouts.
Thanks guys. Yes I would be changing the carrier bearrings for sure as well. If the ring and pinion do end up being good once the shop also looks at them, maybe i would be better off using the money that would have been spent on gears, on a new converter. All this motor, transmission has been out and built twice, and I've still got a stock stall converter in there.
What size tires?
If gears look fine it go back with them.
If they are hurt in anyway, time to replace.
but depending on tire size would help with picking a gear.
If you have 31" tires and go from 3.73 to 4.10 gears you will see a 197rpm increase.
34" tire 3.73 to 4.10 is a 174 rpm increase.
Ya stock size. 275/55r20. So 31.9. Looking at getting a whole kit of gears, bearrings and carrier from Quick Performance. Even after shipping, duty, and dollar conversion it's cheaper then getting stuff in Canada.
I just put a limited slip in my little s10 7.5 10 bolt and I can say without changing the gears it’s way easier then changing the carrier and gear set. If your gears are good you pinion depth will also be good so you just have to shim the carrier till you get the right back lash and the pattern should be just like gm set it at.
I just put a limited slip in ... it’s way easier then changing the carrier
Limited slip IS the carrier.
And yes, changing the carrier, whether limited slip or not, without also changing the gears, is pretty eeeeeeezzzy... pop out the axles, pull the carrier, swap the ring from the old carrier to the new, shim for proper backlash & preload and reinstall, put the axles & fluid back in. Doesn't hurt, in a high mileage rear, to tighten up the pinion nut slightly until you get a little bit of preload, before putting the carrier back in. Changing gears is considerably more involved, because of setting the correct pinion depth and bearing preload.