Blew Tranny a few days ago
Jan 25, 2008 | 06:01 AM
#11
When I first put my converter in (TT3000), with the stock trans, it slipped like mad on the 1-2 shift and never made it to 3rd. When it tried to shift from 2nd to 3rd, it just revved and nothing at all. This all happened within 5 miles on the first test drove. Everyone that had a hand in the install (my brother, and dad) blamed the converter. I told them it had to be the stock trans, that the converter just amplified an existing problem.
Now, with a real, capable trans, I was proven right, the converter is fine, and the truck drives like it should.
You had a stock 4L60E trying to live behind a higher stall torque convereter in a 5000+# truck for several years. I think that you've had pretty good sucess in that regard. I wouldn't blame the converter, just buck up and buy a real trans.
Now, with a real, capable trans, I was proven right, the converter is fine, and the truck drives like it should.
You had a stock 4L60E trying to live behind a higher stall torque convereter in a 5000+# truck for several years. I think that you've had pretty good sucess in that regard. I wouldn't blame the converter, just buck up and buy a real trans.
Jan 25, 2008 | 07:03 AM
#12
The advice thus far is ALL sound advice. I'm no expert, but I wouldn't blame the converter for that issue. An analogy comes to mind... like putting a 1000W amp on a $10 6x9 Walmart speaker that's been in your car for 10 years. Strain on a non-performance part = stress. Bound to go bye-bye. 
Been there, done that. 
Been there, done that.
Jan 25, 2008 | 01:09 PM
#13
Jan 25, 2008 | 01:30 PM
#14
i was 2 miles from my destination when the tranny crapped out on me when making a right hand turn onto another road. the worst noise ever.
reverse and park doesn't work. i got it to a tranny shop some how. in a couple of days they had it fixed. not sure how much it is going to cost. find out friday.
i think the root cause of this whole thing is my Yank 3000 TC. i am never putting one of those in my truck again. don't get me wrong, TC are a blast. but it puts alot of wear on other parts when using it as a daily driver
reverse and park doesn't work. i got it to a tranny shop some how. in a couple of days they had it fixed. not sure how much it is going to cost. find out friday.
i think the root cause of this whole thing is my Yank 3000 TC. i am never putting one of those in my truck again. don't get me wrong, TC are a blast. but it puts alot of wear on other parts when using it as a daily driver
Jan 25, 2008 | 01:34 PM
#15
Jan 25, 2008 | 05:04 PM
#17
Jan 25, 2008 | 06:32 PM
#19
But it also depends on your traction as well.
If you nail it and spin a bit your not hurting too much really unless it spins then really launches you as it grabs.
If it dead hooks then sure it's adding some wear and tear.
Another thing to note is what type of/size cooler are you running?
Heat kills these things more than a stall. But the stall generates a bit more heat....so if you didn't up your cooler then theres one big problem.
Jan 26, 2008 | 06:32 PM
#20
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From: New York
Quicker death...sure if you run it too hard and constitanly nail the gas.
But it also depends on your traction as well.
If you nail it and spin a bit your not hurting too much really unless it spins then really launches you as it grabs.
If it dead hooks then sure it's adding some wear and tear.
Another thing to note is what type of/size cooler are you running?
Heat kills these things more than a stall. But the stall generates a bit more heat....so if you didn't up your cooler then theres one big problem.
But it also depends on your traction as well.
If you nail it and spin a bit your not hurting too much really unless it spins then really launches you as it grabs.
If it dead hooks then sure it's adding some wear and tear.
Another thing to note is what type of/size cooler are you running?
Heat kills these things more than a stall. But the stall generates a bit more heat....so if you didn't up your cooler then theres one big problem.
also, why would it keep locking and unlocking?