GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

About to torch it...

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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #21  
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Are you using the relay mod, or a segment swap to run your 80E?
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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Relay Mod, 60e tune
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 12:14 PM
  #23  
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Richard (Atomic) ran into this same scenario when running his 80E swap with the relay mod. Something about the gear ratios being different, showed up as slip rpm on the scanner. I can't remember the whole situation, or what he did about it. Maybe you can get him to chime in here.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Richard (Atomic) ran into this same scenario when running his 80E swap with the relay mod. Something about the gear ratios being different, showed up as slip rpm on the scanner. I can't remember the whole situation, or what he did about it. Maybe you can get him to chime in here.
If I recall its because the 60e segment does not account for the different gear ratios of the 80e. If you do a scan in 3rd with the converter locked it should eliminate this variable I believe since 3rd is a 1:1 ratio in both the 60 & 80.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 09:01 PM
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Ok, 3rd gear the most I ever saw was 6rpm for a split second rest was bouncing between 0 and 1rpm...

Guess it is looking more and more like the center support..
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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Well, just to be certain, bought an external B&M transmission temp gauge from O'Reillys and it showed about 210 when my gauge showed about 200. So, temp gauge is good.... Just my fkn luck.
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 08:00 AM
  #27  
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Im not a pro by any means, just trying to help diagnose your issue.


If it is the center support. I am assume you used the same center support from both failed builds in the trans you are now having issues with. If so, was it thouroughly inspected to make sure there were no gouges? Were the race and bushings replaced? THe center support was probably damaged when you had an issue with the sprag.

As for the sprag, how did this fail? Did it go out while you were doing a burnout from 1-2?

When the intermediates went, did you have the stock thin snap ring in there?

How is the fluid level?

Cooler lines restricted?

internal or external wire for temp sensor damaged? Check the ohm reading

Did you have a smaller verter the first time? Cooler?

Smaller verters run hotter.

Pump cover or gear drive worn/gouged from past issues causing leakage?

stator shaft bushings, seals, orings replaced?

PR Valve stuck?

Does the trucool have a thermal bypass? If so I wonder if it cannot open completely due to manufacturing defects.

Let us know what you find out. Sorry to hear about your issues man. Hope you get it figured out.
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by chris092183
Im not a pro by any means, just trying to help diagnose your issue.


If it is the center support. I am assume you used the same center support from both failed builds in the trans you are now having issues with. If so, was it thouroughly inspected to make sure there were no gouges? Were the race and bushings replaced? THe center support was probably damaged when you had an issue with the sprag.

I believe the same center support was used. I'm sure he checked for gouges, but may have missed a hairline crack? Not sure.

As for the sprag, how did this fail? Did it go out while you were doing a burnout from 1-2?

No, it went when I was easily going through each gear on the jack stands. It was a weird deal. I did not gas it all just tested the transmission like I have done on every install I've ever done.

When the intermediates went, did you have the stock thin snap ring in there?

Honestly all the internal trans questions I am not sure as the builder did all that.

How is the fluid level?

Fluid level is fine.

Cooler lines restricted?

Negative, they flow about half a quart at 10-15 seconds. I was told the normal flow rate for an 80e is about a quart every 30 seconds so this was spot on.

internal or external wire for temp sensor damaged? Check the ohm reading

I didn't check this, but I highly doubt 2 sensors could be screwed up showing 5-10* difference of each other.

Did you have a smaller verter the first time? Cooler?
Smaller verters run hotter.

The stall before was the same one, I just upgraded it to triple disk full billet. Cooler was replaced when trans took a ****.


Pump cover or gear drive worn/gouged from past issues causing leakage?

No leaks whats so ever externally.

stator shaft bushings, seals, orings replaced?

Not 100% sure, but there were less than 2000 miles on the build when it let go of the intermediates.

PR Valve stuck?

He said he checked the valve body and all pressures were good and valve body look excellent.

Does the trucool have a thermal bypass? If so I wonder if it cannot open completely due to manufacturing defects.

No, I bought the one without bypass as I live in Oklahoma and rarely drive the truck in the winter anyways.

Let us know what you find out. Sorry to hear about your issues man. Hope you get it figured out.
Appreciate the help, I will be calling him back tomorrow and see what he says/thinks.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #29  
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UPDATE:

The center support and the intermediate shaft of this transmission were from a different year model. My builder said this intermediate shaft was the hollow one and in the late models they should all be solid. So, it was a lube issue and has been corrected! I drove 40 miles today and it never got about 125* with 80* ambient temps. Before driving 10 miles it was right at 200* Hope this helps others in the future, it was definitely a learning and frustrating experience.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 10:49 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jschrock
UPDATE:

The center support and the intermediate shaft of this transmission were from a different year model. My builder said this intermediate shaft was the hollow one and in the late models they should all be solid. So, it was a lube issue and has been corrected! I drove 40 miles today and it never got about 125* with 80* ambient temps. Before driving 10 miles it was right at 200* Hope this helps others in the future, it was definitely a learning and frustrating experience.
Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for posting an update!!!

I know it's not your fault but this goes to show why it's important not to mix and match parts inside these units.

When hard parts need to be replaced it's important to make sure you have the correct replacement parts for the year of the unit your working with. I know the ATSG manual shows some of the differences between the years so any one working on one of these can match up the correct parts.

Most likely the unit was gone through previously and the wrong parts were used to repair it. When your builder went through it, he matched up the parts accordingly.

I certainly hope this is the end of your troubles.
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