Im in the proccess of building my 80e, i got a CircleD Triple Disk, Sfi Flexplate, ARP Bolts, and this rebuild kit, seems to be pretty complete

 

From what iv seen the bw 5 pack intermediates and 6 pack directs are the way. What valve body setup are you running? Iv run the hd2 and jakes, jakes shifts much better at wot, blocking off the accumulater so it don't spung up the shifts and let's it pressure spike will make them clutches last much longer.

 

Imo blocking an accum is a way around a proper calibration of a fluid circuit. ive delt with both and am much happier with a mildly changed stock honestly. hd2 can do fine, but not to the kits instructions. and to answer this is an hd2 modified.

i have an idea for what i will run for intermediate, but i know my direct pack which will hold just fine im very sure. going to talk to gilbert some about what he thinks and what all may be done to the trans by him.

 

Yeah you might be right, we have done 4 with the hd2 and all have held up real well, the one I'm running now is the jakes, its vary simple and it works, which makes sense when building custom high performance transmissions for other people that are always changing things and making way more or sell power then its setup for, simple makes sence. I could be wrong on this but the way it looked to me the jakes ways of doing the duel feed mod looked to me like it would get the fluid there faster, but if the directs ate holding then its not really a problem anyways.

 

How's the build coming guys?

Just to recap as best I can remember... Richard (Atomic) got in touch with me some time ago to discuss the idea of freshening it up. I told him hell if it's living large then run it. A month or two went by and he called to talk about a potential converter efficiency issue. There were indications that there was excessive driveline slippage under power. Another converter was installed and the slippage was still apparent.

That's when we started talking about line pressure. I wanted to know what the pressure was at different amperage inputs. And as it turns out, it indeed did have low pressure. So, the decision was made to pull it and tear it down for inspection.

So, after a long discussion we talked about which clutches to use. I really like Borg HE clutches, I like the Raybestos and Alto clutches I installed as well. Simply put, at the power to weight this unit see's I'm kinda impressed. It's my opinion it would have lived just fine had we not got in to line pressure issues.

The jury is still out on that aspect of this exercise. I've asked Richard to get me some pressure readings once it is back together and installed.

No doubt we'll update this thread once it's all wrapped up.

g

 

Thanks for dropping in Gilbert! Like I said earlier, I am pleased with how the trans has performed, and looking back at some logs, its probably been at least somewhat injured since mid-summer before I was going really fast! I can think of one incident at the track where some weather was rolling in and I probably didnt give it enough cool down time between runs and temps were near 180, which isnt terrible by normal standards, but with the huge cooler they are usually 130-140 even getting on it.

Blake is putting his engine back together than hes going to get my trans back in one piece. Im not in a hurry though, engine and turbo are both apart right now anyway.

 

What was the line pressure when it was low?

 

At an 800-850rpm cold idle:
Park: 80psi
Rev: 100
Drive: 85
2nd: 80
3rd: 80-85
4th: 90

After it warmed up a bit park pressure fell to around 70psi with a 750rpm idle.
Manual Low: 70
Manual 2: 70
Manual 3: 70

The we zerod out the EPC and it only went to 85psi.
If it is reved slightly in reverse it jumps up to around 160psi.

doing some rev tests, it would jump up to
140@1500rpm
180@2800rpm
280@2500rpm in reverse and wouldnt increase any after that with rpm.
180@2500 in 2nd
170@2500 in 3rd
190@2500 in 4th

Also by this time the park pressure has dropped to around 50psi.

 

You got it Richard, I haven't been in here in a while. Took the day off to chill. Needed a break, so I figured I'd log in and kick around with you guys today. Definitely keep me in the loop. You guys call if you've got any questions! Matter of fact, I'll be inthe shop tomorrow.... give me a call when you get a minute. I want to run something by you.

On a side note... I'll be in Oklahoma City wrapping up my project there Wednesday and then on to Tulsa Thursday and Friday to test the Prom Mod and the other two cars we're running in XDRL this season. If you call and don't get me, just hang loose and I'll get back atcha as soon as I can.

g

 

I would definitely stay away from ALTO products. They may be OK in stock applications. I have bad luck with them in performance builds. There wide 2-4 band for the 4L60 is the only product that I use. High capacity clutch packs that use thinner steels does not seem to work. the thicker the steel the better its ability to dissipate heat. For example the 4L60E 3-4 clutches and steels with the high energy frictions that GM releasesd in 1995. 3-4s never lasted prior to that even in stock applications. I would go back to the stock intermediate clutch set up run the high energy or raybetos R560710. with .040-.048 clearance.Direct clutches run .055-.070 clearance if your beating on it go with .070. I am experimenting with the Raybestos clutches right now to early to tell how they will work. If use the Raybestos cluthes they are .010 thicker than the 97 up 4L80E intermediate clutches. Either use a TH400 waved intermediate steel or a selectable forward drum snap ring from a Chrysler 727 to achieve proper clearnce. The high energy is always a safe bet. Seems like your pressure should be higher. There may be a problem thats needs addressed other than turning up your pressure control solenoid to achieve your desired pressure. As far as the pump damage, the filters are pretty efficient. that being said either your front pump bushing is coming apart or debris from your torque converter is the culprit. You cannot flush your transmission cooler enough. it is crucial to flush your cooling system.